Mixing Rail Types

Only problem is to maintain railhieght and gauge through the joint - not at all hard to do.

Transition tracks are just short pieces with code 100 at one end and code 83 at the other, etc. The rails are aligned so that the inside (gauge) edges and tops match up. If you want to make your own transitions, an easy way with flatbottom rail is put rail joiners on the larger rails, squash the projecting parts flat, then solder the smaller rails on top of it, aligning inside edges and tops. Piece of cake w/ flat bottom. Sleepers on the lighter rail will have to be thicker or raised by inserting a layer of card underneath.

Bullhead rail is trickier. I've never done it, so can't give concrete advice, but I would imagine you could make up two short (3"-6") pieces of track (w/ chairs and copper clad sleepers), and then adjust the height in place on the layout, eg, by packing under the sleepers of the smaller rail.

Have fun.

There's an easier way than that! I use transitions between code 75 and code 100. See:

The change in rail is at the tunnel mouth. I filed the underside of the code 100 rail to create a 'step' which is half the length of a code 75 fishplate. The code 100 rail is filed until it is the same height as a code 75 rail. Once this is done, I used a code 75 fishplate to connect both rails together. No modification of the fishplat is necessary other than making sure it is a tight fit. A little packing is needed under the code 75 sleepers (thin card) but once extra sleepers are placed under the joint, you can see that it is very neat and tidy and once painted, it is very difficult to tell the difference.

Graham Plowman Model Railways Online Magazine

Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:

smaller

pieces

Cool!

Now why didden I thinko'that. :-)

For mixing Code 75 and Code 100 rail, I've used Peco's transition joiners quite successfully, with styrene shims under the code 75 track to keep the track flat. A bit spendy, but quick and easy.

Stuart