I have added some chips to DCC Ready loco`s, and am wanting to now add them
to three loco`s that are not DCC ready and am wondering how to go about how
to wire them e.g. which colour wires go to where ?
I am using Bachmann E-Z command controller and Bachmann 2 function chips,
the items I want to do are
a Early Bachmann class 08 ( 08921 EWS livery )
A Hornby Class 110 DMU,
And a Hornby R 2457 Britannia class 7MT tender drive.
Any and all help is gratefully received
The Bachmann O8 is easy, you connect the red decoder wire to the RH pickup
and the black decoder wire to the LH pickup, and the orange wire to the
right side of the motor and the grey wire to the left side of the motor. I
removed the small circuit board at the front of the loco and stuck the
decoder to the circuit board retaining pins that remained with the supplied
Don't have any Hornby stuff other than "Thomas " and Hogworts Castle so
can't help with the others.
Except that he used a black beetle motor bogie so it doesn't really
count as chipping the 110.
Beware, Hornby seem to change the design of their motor bogies. I've
seen instructions for converting Hornby locos (e.g. the 110 in the
files archive of the DCCUK Yahoo group) that are different to what
would be possible on my examples. Here's how I did my (old, purchased
on Ebay) 110. Yours may well be different:
I used a Zimo MX64.
Locate and gently releas the 6 clips holding the body on, these are
part of the glazing moulding. Four are in the central section, two
under the unpowered bogie.
Disconnect the black wire from the motor and connect to the decoder
Remove the screw holding the right hand brush holder and remove one
side of the capacitor. This screw is screwed into the plastic half of
the motor with a clearance hole in the rear metal half of the motor.
There is no need for any further isolation. Insert the decoder grey
wire where the capacitor was and replace the screw. Take care not to
lose the brush or the spring.
Remove the screw holding the left hand brush holder and remove the
capacitor completely. This screw is screwed into the metal half of the
motor, and is live to the non-traction tyred wheels. You need to make a
connection from the screw (or the metal of the motor body) to the
decoder red wire and from the decoder orange wire to the brush holder
whilst isolating the two. I isolated the screw by sleeving a couple of
mm where it passes through the brush holder and using a nylon washer
under the head of the screw. A brass washer between the head of the
screw and the nylon washer was used for soldering the decoder red wire.
The decoder orange wire is inserted where the capacitor was and
connects to the brush holder.
You could replace the left hand screw with anylon one to isolate the
brush holder but then you need to somehow connect to the metal motor
body. I didn't fancy trying to drill and tap a new hole.
Check thoroughly for shorts/open as appropriate with a multimeter or
Test on the programming track.
I've found even three pole Hornby motors are capable of very smooth
running (even at low speed) with a good quality high frequency decoder.
Hope this helps,
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