Peco track plans OO

Hi, Im currently in the process of building 'Bredon' on page 24 which features in the Setrack Planbook OO/HO with slight modifications. The modifications
are basically using radius 2 (instead of 1) for the inner and 3 for the outer. Ive noticed that part of the curves are made up of ST204's to a ST241 on the straight.Basically what im asking is would the geometry still be correct taking into account the larger curves being used?. Im no novice but no expert either and don't want to make an expensive mistake again! Im not after perfection, just something like bredon which im stretching slightly. Failing that id be interested if there is anything on the net i can look at for ideas. Thanks for any advice on this.
Oh by the way....will a 9F go round a 1st radius? Just curious
Cheers Chris
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FastMoggy wrote:

Make photocopies of the track pieces, and experiment.
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FastMoggy wrote:

I believe that some of the older Hornby versions will go around 1st radius, but neither the current Hornby or the new Bachmann versions will.
John
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My Bachmann 9F has finally arrived in Canada after 4 weeks in the post! It was flagged at customs for 14% sales tax plus a $5 service fee (no duty as such). Still, that's offset by the VAT I didn't have to pay.
It is magnificent, but it has trouble with some of my 2nd radius curved points (facing, inside curve). I can see I'll have to do some tinkering. It will definitely NOT negotiate the 1st radius curved points in my yard, although my Hornby Black 5 will, under protest - from the tender, too.
Photo at
http://home.cogeco.ca/~msmodels/bachmann/9F-1.jpg .
--
Martin S.

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"MartinS" wrote

Peco and Hornby setrack double curved points are notorious for derailing stock - they're to be avoided in my estimation.

Setrack point are second radius on the curve, but still far too tight in my estimation. When I said the 9F would negotiate 2nd radius, I did mean on plain track.
John.
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I used them because the only way I could fit a double track loop with a 3- track passing section into my restricted space was to have points on the curves. The 9F is putting these to the test, but I managed to run it in for 1 hour in each direction, as per Bachmann's instructions, with no derailments, and the motor (cunningly concealed in the boiler, with a complex but invisible gear train to the drivers) wasn't even warm.
--
Martin S.

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MartinS wrote:

Yay! <Enzo does the Happy Dance!>
--
Enzo

I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.
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Did you see my piccy?
I'm slightly disappointed at its slow speed running (with a . I have run in it for 1 hour in each direction as recomended by Bachmann; if it's still not as smooth as I'd like, I'll check it for any binding in the complex motion, and maybe apply some judicious spots of Electrolube.
--
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Sorry, that went off prematurely again. I meant to say I was using a MRC 280 DC control unit that normally gives good low-speed control.
--
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MartinS wrote:

I've found that disassembling a new mech, cleaning it, and relubing often goes a long way with Bachmann. One loco that limped turned out to have a minute bit of flash stuck in the main gear, such that it limped running forward but not backward. At first I thought it was a slight fault in the quartering, just enough that the play in the siderods caused a bind in one direction but not the other. On another loco (different manufacturer) there was a bit of flash left on the diecast chassis next to one of the axles, which of course caused enough of a bind to slow the loco down.
HTH
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"MartinS" wrote

Shouldn't be like that, and unless you're running on DCC with a feedback decoder (in which case you might need to adjust the feedback settings) then you might have a duffer.
John.
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I am asure you have - but how about just doing that bit in flexi track? Its really not a big deal. I did my last lot by cutting cardboard arcs of 1 2 and 3 radius pressed against the inside of the rail - and then used those arcs to make sure i didn't exceed the chosen radius for the b it of the layout.
Sure beats what i did first time - a semi circle of set track 3 all the way round the outside with a little bit of straight track in the centre to make the radius bigger. Ah well.
ken
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I did a similar thing using foamboard to lay out the track centreline on the baseboard - it helped with Setrack points, too, including curved ones, in which the outer track has a 63mm straight section at the facing end.
My outer curves are 22" radius, which I did with Atlas flextrack - before Atlas came out with new and improved 22" fixed radius curves. I actually prefer the newer Atlas flextrack over Peco - it's also cheaper and more readily available in US and Canada.
--
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"FastMoggy" wrote

Depends whether you're talking about Hornby or Bachmann? The Bachmann model requires 2nd radius, but will happily negotiate those with the front steps attached.
The old Hornby will go round first radius from memory.
John.
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As I said in another post, my Bachmann 9F derails on some of my 2nd radius curved points. The tender also needs to be on the outer drawbar hole; the loco doesn't foul the tender, but it tends to pull it off the track.
--
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MartinS wrote: [...]

Hornby track does not play nice with Bachmann wheels. Bachmann has adopted a wheel profile and spacing that conforms pretty well to NMRA and NEM standards and recommendations. Older Hornby turnouts are made for older Hornby wheels, which are utter $%^&.
Have you considered Atlas #6 turnouts instead? They will handle long-wheelbase steamers with ease. Of course, you'd have to decide whether the associated rebuilding of track is worth the effort - but I don't think you should consider your layout as "final" design, anyhow. Rebuilding is also fun!
Older Hornby locos would likely have problems, so you might have to institute restricted routes for your engines, just like the Real Railways. :-)
HTH
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I don't have room for Atlas #6 or Peco Streamline turnouts on my 6'x 8' layout. I had to make some adjustments to an older Hornby Gresley A4, and to the Hornby points (shimming the checkrail), as the bogie wheels where contacting the body skirt and causing derailments. The 9F derails on some points and not other identical ones. A slight adjustment to the back-to-back might help - I haven't tried it yet. 92116 will definitely have to stay out of my fiddle yard.
--
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