point motors and hand made points

Aug 29, 2007 7 Replies

Greetings I have retrieved (for free) a whole pile of old Hornby short rad points and am stripping all the rail off, apart from the switch blades, and replacing it with NS retrieved from old track, fixing it with superglue to the plastic sleeper base.making them live frog in the process - each point is costing me something in the region of 10p! I have used a couple in the loco yard, operated by wire in tube with the polarity changed by the mechanical switch and they work fine. However, I want to use 7 of these points in the fiddle yard. My problem is, the yard is a bit difficult to reach, and I really need to use point motors. Is there a way of ensuring the tie bar stays put after the throw, bearing in mind that none of these points have any of the original operating springs etc?



Any suggestions much appreciated. Cheap suggestions appreciated even more!



JD


Use R/C servos or tortoise style point motors.

MBQ

Would a small magnet ( or two) strategically placed on the electromagnet assembly of a Peco or similar point motor, ensure that the moving part stayed in either the one position or the other...

Stay with ebay and look for H&M motors. They are very positive and have their own c.o. switches. I use them in difficult places via rod & tube ( often gluing the tubes to any vertical or by letting posts into the baseboard to support them. Regards

Point motor with over centre lock or those peco plastic bases for their motors have a over centre lock built in

I made over-center springs for my turnouts. As they are permanently fixed to the baseboard there's no reason to make the springs as dinky as the Peco ones. I used a very small diameter brass tube for a pivot vertically through the baseboard at twice the distance from tiebar to point pivot beyond the pivot on a line parallel between point tie bar center and point pivot center. A wire "L" goes through the brass tube pivot with the long arm hooked. Another wire down from the point tie bar and rigidly fixed to the tie bar, also with a hooked end isd fitted. A light spring goes between the tie bar wire and the "L" wire. I've variously used Marklin reversing springs, sheering elastic or spring wire in a "Z" shape. Very little tension is required from the spring.

If you get it right the point blades will "snap" in both directions. If the blades snap in only one direction you got the pivot position wrong.

Regards, Greg.P.

The range of SEEP motors come with spring and contacts good for underboard fitting.

Chris

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