Weathering Question

Say you had a 'friend' who made a pigs ear of lining using transfers with black/yellow on base colour of crimson lake - ie LMS post 1928 express passenger livery. What advice would you give as to which colour(s) to use for heavy weathering to hide the error of their ways. Like you can use lots of gunmetal on black then ......

cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon
Loading thread data ...

If this was a 'real friend' I'd suggest that he/she start again and get the lining right. Otherwise copious layers of tar should cover the lining but not the memory.

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Thank you kindly .... Yes but youre a capable perfectionist with years of experience. I just want something that looks ok from normal viewing distance.

tar - how does that translate to Humbol colour sceme ?

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

Hi Simon,

"Capable perfectionist" Hmmmm.

Waaayyyy back when I was starting high school I built a couple of wagons

- one was a low side open using Hornby Dublo wheels (a catalogue part) My grandfather showed me how to cut out tinplate with a chisel and how to punch holes using a nail and I made a balsa and card body. It was so light it wouldn't stay on the track, and frankly it looked terrible! The second one used proprietry bogies and a card/balsa body with an old bolt glued inside. The only paint I had was an ancient tin of teak from Dad's shed. It really didn't look like 'red-oxide' in the least, but I was quite proud and it stayed on the track. Then there was an NZR Ec Class Bo'Bo' built on an old Lone Star Treble-Oh chassis. It looked like the prototype if you squinted at the right angle. ... Later I built a layered card passenger carriage using the bogies of the above goods wagon (HD) I still have that coach stashed away, mostly to keep myself humble when I get too big-headed. The first (acceptable) loco I built went through Mks 1 to 7 before I was satisfied. A few years later DJH brought out the same model and then Roco brought it out to a standard I'll never reach.

Where is all this going?

- I've never been satisfied long term with models I've bodged.

- When I've failed I've tried again.

- none of my 'perfect' models are anything like perfect, but only I know their faults.

- Don't stop building a model because something isn't perfect, but stop and start again if you know you can do it better. When you've made enough mistakes you learn what won't work and what isn't acceptable. Of course there's still more mistakes to be made, but your chances of success get better.

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

True, but this is a legitimate bodge. Theres a number of captions in reference books where they arent sure if a loco is lined or not cos the lining is only visible in places as an outline. Always intended to weather it - perhaps just make it a bit dirtier now.

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

In that case, you want a non-glossy black, let down with a touch of white and a touch of red-oxide. The white _should_ make the black go matt. The "rust" of the red oxide should be greater lower down, almost 50% on the underframe and minimal near the top. Use more white on footplates and top surfaces. Overhead? Add some light green to simulate copper oxide near the top. You need to _spray_ the weathering on. One of those cheap and nasty $15- airbrushes (UKP5-?) you find in hardware shops that think they have an art department will do. A car spare tyre pumped up to 30-50lb/sq.in will be adequate for the job. Spray on the lightest coat of your _thinned_ Humbrol that you can - check it in sunshine (I guess that would be daylight in England ;-) and then add some more. Stop before you overdo it! Stop when it's no longer fun. Look at lots of colour photos to see where the muck should be. If people refuse to touch your loco or check their fingers after touching it, then you've got it nicely grubby!

Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Was just about to remove the worst bits of lining (50%) and start again and you give an full answer. Thank you for that. May just replace the extreme bad bits. Any hints if dont want to use an airbrush - managed ok with gunmetal by waiting a short while then reburush, wait another short while and rebrush till evenly spread.

Thanks Simon

Reply to
simon

Having made such lining errors (not really improving due to anno domini), I have had resort to heavy weathering although I always try to maintain a variety of degrees from light to total. My source is the cellulose thinners wash pot which with the aid of the addition of extra matt black from tie to time produces a realistic finish. The degree is dependent on the number of passes. Water leaks are provided with the addition of some white/ light grey in the spray pot.

Equally, my inability to easily obtain Humbrol No3 (Brunswick Green) and having to substitute No76 (Uniform Green) is compensa

Reply to
Sailor

Having made such lining errors (not really improving due to anno domini), I have had resort to heavy weathering although I always try to maintain a variety of degrees from light to total. My source is the cellulose thinners wash pot which with the aid of the addition of extra matt black from tie to time produces a realistic finish. The degree is dependent on the number of passes. Water leaks are provided with the addition of some white/ light grey in the spray pot.

Equally, my inability to easily obtain Humbrol No3 (Brunswick Green) and having to substitute No76 (Uniform Green) is compensated by similar weathering.

Of course, if it is really gross then, it has to come off!

Regards

Reply to
Sailor

On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 22:14:25 +0100, "simon" said in :

Make a policy of only looking at it through beer goggles. Should work well enough.

Incidentally, on another NG today they referenced a word new to me but instantly comprehensible and of relevance here: a pingfuckit. I take it this requires no further explanation? I believe the original reference is along the lines of "now reinsert the pingfuckit clip..."

Guy

Reply to
Just zis Guy, you know?

Hi Simon,

I'm a professional artist these days and know how to make any pattern you want with a paintbrush and paint, ink ... :-) To get the weathered finish you want with no brush marks would require good quality fine ground pigment paint (a new tin of Humbrol _might_ just do) strained through the finest strainer you can get (very fine nylon stockings) thinned about 3:1 and applied with a _really_ good quality brush in a reverse stippling manner. That paint brush is going to cost you more than the airbrush I suggested and won't do as good a job. Anything less is going to look like tar painted on with a six inch paintbrush. (ie BAD) Of course, the result also depends on how good your eyesight is - If you never noticed that older British steam locos don't have outside cylinders then yer Dad's 6" linseed brush and a tin of warmed tar will do the job ;-)

Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Nice idea. Dont tell greg but I wash brushes with washing up liquid and water. Be a bit of a bubbly paint job !

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

We've had a chat here and come to the conclusion theres cabinet standard - as provided by Hornby and (sometimes) Bachmann. Then theres layout standard. Brushing just reaches the local layout standard so is considered acceptable. Was looking at an old Hornby Compound that am happy to have trundling round. Whilst the lining is not as bad as mine it is a bit rough.

OK, where would I look for a cylinder ?

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

Distilled water?

Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Homogenised.

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

Well, for the first hundred years after the Rocket, the cylinders were mostly put between the frames under the smoke box where they were in the spot most difficult to access for maintainance.

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

That's fine for the loco's paint, but hopefully the weathering won't be as thick! :-)

Reply to
Greg Procter

Should hope so, dont want nasty bits spoiling the outline ! What shape/size are they ?

Cheers, Simon

Reply to
simon

Brunswick Green consists of equal parts of Prussian Blue and Yellow Ochre is that's any help?

(kim)

Reply to
kim

A real combo of S&DJR & Railtrack!

I have dozens of cans whose lids are coloured - often completely differently from the contents and until recently no means of using the numbers as idents . This has lead to some really hopeful combinations and others which change so much in drying that one is left wondering if it ever really looked the part in the first place! When I got to thinking about it, there was never a time when rolling stock managed a homogeneous colour scheme so my efforts are probably realistic.

Regards

Reply to
Sailor

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.