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Zero 1 Known Faults? advice on Master/Micromimic Console

Hiya I am in the process of setting up a new layout using Hornby zero 1 kit. Since i have the kit its far cheaper than to go DCC at present.

I have an odd fault though with the Micromimic Control Console. It does not respond to the key numbers as it should. Have two consoles both do the same. Both have new batteries and PCB on one fully repaired. Both same symptoms.

Oddly though I am suspecting the Master controller. There seems to be

7V DC on the output as well as the 24V AC signal. The controller works fine for loco operation and accessory unit operations. Its Just the Micromimic console odd response.

The Master power led is flickering also, is this normal? The unit is also not silent and emits almost a ticking sound, the accessory units also do the same. I have a pretty good schematic but not full circuit diagram, but as fas as i can see I should have no DC on the output.

Can anyone measure their Master and check for any DC presence please?

I am asking for anyone with previous faults to perhaps list here to create a known database of fault.

If anyone needs advice on Master Keyboard repair, this is very easy.

-Drill out the rivets to gain access to the unit

-Remove the keypad pcb

-Clean the contacts if corroded, very fine sanding works a treat, otherwise contact cleaner should only be required.

-The rubber keypad is normally hat fails

-To repair the Rubber keypad, simply use the Hornby Coding Paint used on modules, and re-paint the black pads.

-Re-assemble

-Test and you should find it works perfectly.

-Suggest to use nut and bolts to re-assemble the unit for easy access the next time

- Not the right side of the unit must be flush to allow slave controller connection, so leave the rivets/fixings out is simplest.

Any help on if the Power LED flickers at all on your Master or if anyone can quickly measure the output voltage for DC would be appreciated.

Darren

Reply to
Darren
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I have not had my Zero 1 powered up for at least 25 years but yes, I do remember that the green power light flickered and the unit emitted a sort of ticking noise.

ROB

Reply to
Robert Flint

er in the post to me also.

Reply to
Darren

Small update, The flicker is for sure standard, got the mimic system working fine, the markings on the rear, A and B are in-correct, A-B and B to A and all works! I don't have the original lead hence didn't see this until i thought what the hell, just swap them and try anyway. Now have three fully refurbished and working mimic consoles including new batteries!

Now to get laying some track, will have a fully working Retro DCC Zero

1 system working with full mimic system!

Darren

Reply to
Darren

Reply to
sralston2

Just wondering why you have reposted this 5-year-old post. Is the OP still trying to get his Zero 1 to work? Or are you the OP?

Reply to
MartinS

Hi Darren, where did you get your micromimic units refurbed? Thanks.

Reply to
sralston2

I know it's years since you posted this but I'll try.

Any idea why zero one master suddenly stays on overload. It worked great for weeks since I took it out of the loft now even with the wires not connected to the track it goes to overload.

Please help

Reply to
bowmantom02

On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 12:36:54 AM UTC+12, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

for weeks since I took it out of the loft now even with the wires not conne cted to the track it goes to overload.

Hi

Join this group.

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Also quite possible the keyboard pad needs cleaning or repair the rubber ca rbon button needs repair. Use tinfoil, a small dot and glue in. Also tac tile switches can be used . (enquire on the new group they have info I thi nk. When pressed this joins the tracks together and processes the instruc tion. The carbon could be broken on one key and hanging down causing it to short or the reset button not working for the same reason. Charlie NZ

Reply to
sswcharlie

Thanks Charlie, I'll give that a go

Reply to
bowmantom02

Years ago I got help with my zero-1 from the Model Electronic Railway Group (MERG) who still have technical bulletins available on zero-1 in the ZERO section:

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If I were you, having drilled out the "rivets" holding the case together, I would check any capacitors to see if they have deteriorated over the years and gone short circuit and replace them.

My main problem was the keyboard which I repaired using the MERG replacement keyboard kit.

Alan

Reply to
Alan Dawes

replying to Alan Dawes, AllanG wrote: I'm resurrecting a Zero 1 for the grandkids. The controller works well for about 60 seconds then stops. I've got to turn it off for a few minutes, then it starts again for another minute. Sounds like a heat problem. Has anyone seen this problem? A circuit would be great but no one seems to have one.

Reply to
AllanG

replying to Alan Dawes, AllanG wrote: I'm resurrecting a Zero 1 for the grandkids. The controller works well for about 60 seconds then stops. I've got to turn it off for a few minutes, then it starts again for another minute. Sounds like a heat problem. Has anyone seen this problem? A circuit would be great but no one seems to have one.

Reply to
AllanG

Reply to
john Nicholson

I have all the circuits for these

Reply to
john Nicholson

Hi,

Would you be able to send me the circuit diagrams you have please?

Also do you know the battery type for the Zero 1 Micromimic display please?

Thanks,

Andy.

Reply to
Andy Piercy

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