The glass in the hood provides the UV protection, with or without the
electronics, the electronics just cuts the dazzle down to an accepable
level. Hoods are expensive enough that refurb/repair is viable. If
the filter were cracked, that would be an item for concern. But it's
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 05:21:42 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I had the same problem with my Harbor Freight helmet. One of the rechargeable's
in it went bad and one is fair. I removed the bad one and unsoldered two coin
cell holders from old motherboards. A little bit of wire, cut a notch to let the
case close and it works like new. When the other battery goes bad I will do the
The batteries in the helmets, if I recall correctly, have opposite polarities
for the tabs than what you can readily order. I do remember the one on the right
side with the case open has the tabs in a non-standard arrangment and that is
why I went the external coin cell holder route. I am using a 2032 lithium. Being
that I had the motherboards with batteries and holders it cost me nothing but
saved me $50.
Thor: Thanks for the heads up as to polarity. It is likely that I
would have checked the polarity on one side and not checked the
other. I'm a bit surprised that you put a time limit on your posting
- this is the kind of info I was searching for a few months ago with
Thanks to every one else on recomended sources for small qty of
electical components. Having a good picture or dwg available for a
battery holder is a plus since I want to mount it to the outside
surface of the autodark module instead of the typical (on board)
On Fri, 6 Aug 2010 05:28:21 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
Give me a day or two and I will put a web page up.
In the mean time,
Radioshack part 270-009 and it is called a CR2032 Battery Holder. You can tell
polarities of the coin cells by the big + on one side. With this coin cell
holder the negative gos on the bottom. Look at and mark + the circuit board
before you take the battery off. Do NOT use too much heat on those lithium cells
or they will pop and splatter stuff in your face and every where else. I used
about 3" of wire I has handy, speaker wire will do just fine. You want stranded
rather than solid. You can use any brand or make of 2032 you can find for the
cheapest(dollar store). I did not "mount" my holder to anything, I didn't want
to put a new hole through the hood and my wires hold things in place. I do not
think that hot melt will stick to the hood from HF.
When you open the case that holds the LCD you may want to use a budger, kind of
like a plastic flat pick. If you don't have a budger then use something smooth
so you don't catch and crack the plastics and go SLOW. I think the corners were
held down better than the sides.
Pre-tin your wires before you solder anything to anything. You can wrap your
wire around the posts on the holder or just do a lap join, just make sure it
Straight out from where the battery was, perpindicular to the circuit board, cut
a notch in the lip of the LCD holder so your wires can enter, cut just enough so
they can enter and be held firm in place. Solder everything where it goes, close
the case, put the screws back in, put the nob back on the darkness control and
you are done.
Reply to this message quoting me so when my X-No-Archive: yes kicks it off of
google groups your copy will stay.
I will give a heads up when I get the page set up and where, got to take
pictures and stuff I don't like to do.
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