Generator?

Nov 20, 2008 23 Replies

I've given this a few years thought and some action, having found the power company where I built my shop to be absurdly unreasonable, and full-on solar to be unworkable (too much $$, too little sun) though I will have a solar component.

To start with, a 1200 or 1800 (6 or 4 pole generator) diesel, liquid cooled. When I was misinformed about the cost of getting a connection, I wasted money on a 3600 RPM air-cooled gasoline welder/generator - big mistake. Might as well have pissed money into a hole - should have put it into a miller big D or the like, or a diesel generator and a separate welder (easier to move in two parts, though you don't get the 100% duty cycle - but I never weld at 100% duty cycle anyway....)

Two main options - a generator, or one of the diesel-driven welder-generators. For the nutcase option, look up Listeroid, but I think on balance that that is a nutcase option - and I looked long and hard before deciding that.

I settled on a Northern Lights (not Northstar or anything associated with northern hydrualics) marine generator, 1800 rpm. When connected (it's not at present) the cooling system will be tied into the heat for the shop, to double-dip on the money I'm spending on off-road diesel, aka #2 fuel oil. I got mine used with low hours from someone re-powering their boat with a bigger one. They seem to be very well-regarded, and I've corresponded with a guy who runs a pair for sole power in Alaska, and has gotten 30-40,000 hours between rebuilds on them. Not Chinese Crap (tm). In summer I'll swap plumbing to a radiator (the sort of thing you'd get built-in with a "land" unit, but marine units are easier to find used for this brand), but also in summer I'll have more sun to work with. Parts availability should be excellent - a big advantage over chinese crap.

I also have an elderly Kohler gas unit, also liquid-cooled and 1800 rpm, which I hope to put on a wood-gas or wood-gas and propane diet, but that's a project that has not come to fruition, though lack of copious spare time.

For some reason (though I ultimately did not go this route, and they may be too small for what you want) the towable diesel generators with lights attached (portable lighting units) usually sell for less than a similar sized generator, in the used market. I shopped the used market for quite some time, which is where this became apparent to me.

Central maine diesel is one internet clearinghouse of various diesels, some really crappy IMHO, some probably OK - such as the Isuzu ones.

I need to electrifry my shop. It will cost $$$ to run a new line from the power pole. So, I want a generator. I need to run a Lincoln SP 175 Plus with it, plus some lights and basic tools. I don't want to buy minimal size.



While driving from San Diego a couple of days ago, I saw some generators that were basically running 24/7 lighting up some road billboards.



What brand of larger industrial duty generator would be a good one to watch for? Any to stay away from? I'm thinking something like a four banger or small diesel. Should be able to buy one in today's economy reasonable.



Steve


BTW, Lincoln Electric says 6,000 watt is the minimum size for that welding machine.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.infowest.com:

If you elect to go with a gasser, have it converted to LPG or Natural Gas (whichever is available) so that you won't have to fight the battle of refilling the tank frequently.

While a trailer-based portable gummint-surplus might be your best bet, you might want to see if you can find a small farm tractor and use a PTO generator such as the 10KW one that Horible Freight sells. A small diesel tractor [preferably with a front-end loader and pallet hooks] can have many other uses, as well!

Go oversized on the genset: a large generator running at 1/4-1/2 load will use less fuel than a smaller one running flat out. [BTDT]

Found a 9.5kw and 13.5kw today on craigslist. A little out of the ballpark at $6500 and $13,500. I'll shop locally, and put ads on the local AM station's trade hour, and bet I'll come up with one from someone's cabin. Or someone's brother-in-law's cabin. ;-)

Will still see what the power company wants to run a pole line. When we did a recent remodel/addition, it was about $7k for a second underground line to the panel.

Yes, that's what I want to do is run about half staff instead of balls to the wall all the time. I wonder what Dr. Watson would do?

Steve

Perhaps a silly question, but why can't you run a subpanel from the house yourself? Utilities typically want to do a separate meter and separate service charge for a separate run from the pole. Some won't even do a separate service on the same residential property.

Well, upgrading the house service and installing a new main panel, making the existing one a sub, and then running another sub in the shop yourself is likely a significantly cheaper way to go.

A new 200A panel is only a couple hundred dollars, 100A breaker to feed the presumably 100A current main panel is like $25, and if you recently ran a new U/G feed to the house from the pole, I've sure it's already sized for a 200A service. A new 200A meter socket if needed is under $100.

Give us more details on what you have now, distances, etc. and we can probably give you a much better plan of attack.

I see IR brand ones around here during and after Hurricanes. The units power several rental houses. They are large cubes that are towed behind trucks.

Many rental places have them for ranch/lake lot/hunting lodge/etc... use.

Check a rental for a list.

Mart> I need to electrifry my shop. It will cost $$$ to run a new line from the

We maxxed out the panel when we did a casita. The idiot who built the house did everything Mickey Mouse, and the panel barely covered the expansion.

Steve

My shop is 80' from the house, or about 100' of wire. I had no problem running a 125A sub to my shop and upgrading to a better 200A panel in the house.

It started with a crappy 200A main lug Stab-Loc panel in the house and a QO but hopelessly inadequate 30A 6 slot panel in the shop.

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My friend, who wired the casita is a master union electrician with 32 years of experience. The original panel is 100 amp. The distance from the pole to the container is at least 100'. I'm talking a little in the dark here, as I have just about decided that what I want is a generator instead of running a new service over there. But I'll wait until I talk to him.

Steve

No you don't!

They're - expensive to buy - expensive to run (try figuring the kwh cost) - noisy !!! - require maintenance

As Pete has advocated the best solution is a sub panel. It CAN be done. The cost will be MUCH less than that of a genny, with none of the disadvantages.

Bob

I agree with Pete and Bob E on the generator. I had a ~12KW military surplus genset that had an inline 4 cylinder engine that looked like a Jeep engine. I had the generator and a Dialarc 250 on a trailer. The generator made so much noise, it was a miserable thing to use. It burned about 3 gallons of gasoline/hour.

With a fixed installation and the generator in a distant building, the noise could be dealt with, but it would still have the fuel cost and the maintenance.

Good Luck, BobH

If you can provide propane or natural gas, you could get a 'standby' unit at Home Depot or Lowe's - those that switch on the house after a blackout and run until the power comes back on. They are used to run long times. They are like an Icebox layed over on the side.

That might be a good idea if gas is available.

Mart> I need to electrifry my shop. It will cost $$$ to run a new line from the

*** Pete said ****----->

Perhaps a silly question, but why can't you run a subpanel from the house yourself? Utilities typically want to do a separate meter and separate service charge for a separate run from the pole. Some won't even do a separate service on the same residential property.

**************** I go along with Pete. Probably 99 percent of the time a power company runs a household 220V feed they put in wire for 200 amps. So I'm betting your house has the line hardware for 200 amp service. You just need a 200 amp panel, and can go from there. You may not even need a sub-panel at the main box at your house, as long as the garage feed in the main has its separate breakers. You would want a sub-panel in your garage though.

Your prayers have been answered:

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why not simply pick up a good used Lincoln Ranger 9? 250 amps, AC/DC multiprocess, can be used for MIG or tig (tig needs a HF box if you want HF), is pretty economical on gas, can be converted to propane or natural gas, gives an honest 9000 watts of 230/115. It Is a 3600 rpm machine however..shrug.

An SA200 will work just fine for most things including Tig or mig with the proper adapaters. I think steve said he got one recently. A big automotive muffler can be stuck on it and quiet it down a bunch.

That big Miller 55G that is on my To Do list (posted about the frozen engine) is multi process, AC-DC...not a big genny 115 vt section though...shrug

Gunner

"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania

I do this all the time in industrial applications. Its easy, and there are good used 125 amp panels available for only a few bucks if you look for one. 100ft, not a problem.

Gunner

"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania

The cost of running a generator over the years will make the cost of a new service look cheap, unless you can tap a near by natural gas well.

I solved this problem at my home many years ago when the power company insisted on a second meter.

First, I had them install a new 240 volt three phase service to my shop. Then after the initial inspection and connection, I ran a new 200 amp branch

150' over to my home, and disconnected the old meter and service drop.

It was easy to talk them in to a large three phase service that even required a transformer bank at their expense, while they were thinking two meters, and tow separate monthly bills. I just never mentioned my plan to drop the old service.

Yes, this is absolutely true. The ONLY sane reason to use a generator is for portable power, or for outages, or the case where mains power is MILES away. People used generators years ago, when gas was under a $, and it was an awfully expensive way to power a site. Now, it is totally insane. Figure it out -- electricity is available across most of the US under $0.10 a KWH. A really good generator (like a big 1200 RPM Diesel) will probably get you down to about $0.50 a KWH for fuel cost ALONE. And, that will be a VERY expensive machine to purchase, and require maintenance JUST when you really don't want to deal with it.

Figure an average 5 KW draw, using the welder part-time, but having lights and other gear on a lot of the time your are out there. I don't know the level of this shop, are we talking about 8 hours a day or just 4 hours a weekend? Assuming the 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, that's 8 * 5 *

50 = 2000 hours a year. $0.10 gives $200 a year electric bill. $0.50 = $1000 a year. Even if you run up a couple thousand $ in cable, panels and labor to install, it will pay for itself in 2 years! No more noise, exhaust fumes, oil changes in the middle of the winter, going to fetch fuel...... OH, yeah, I FORGOT to factor in the several thousand $ cost of the GENERATOR!

If mains power is just a couple hundred FEET away, I can't believe you'd even CONSIDER a generator.

I don't think you even need to involve the utility in this. A contractor should be able to trench in a feed off your house panel (with sutiable adjustments to the panel in the house). Check the drop from the pole to make sure it is good for the

200 A, but unless it is totally antique, it almost certainly is. The utility won't charge much to upgrade that and your meter if you need more amps, as they'll be selling you more KWH.

Jon

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