Lincoln SP 175+

I think it is the fact that Lincoln bought Century years ago. It is like an infestation of low quality.

My Weldpak 100 must be pre-Century . Within it's limitations it does a fine job . Even pushing the limits on thickness it does well . I mistakenly hooked it to a 208/3ph circuit the other day with my field tap , it tripped the internal breaker . I realized what I'd done , reset and hooked it to the correct voltage and went right on with the job .

I wrote a complaint letter to Lincoln, we'll see what happens. I shall not be holding my breath. I took it all apart, and replaced the liner, which should last longer than 30# of wire maximum. It still does the intermittent starting and stopping, but will weld longer now before it shuts off. It was enough for me to finish my project to this point, but I am NOT happy with the machine.

I'd be happy with a free service on it. Something is obviously wrong, and the machine has had very light use.

Steve

It might be possible that the plating on the liner has worn through and the inside of the liner now is rusty, making feeding hard. Do you have a problem with rust on your tools? Might be the humidity is high in your shop.

That would not really be something that is caused by Lincoln. You just need to do more welding.

Dan

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Dan

Sorry I missed seeing that you had replaced the liner.

Dan

Umm , Dan - Steve lives in the desert southwest . I suspect humidity is the least of his problems . FWIW , I live in southwest Tennessee , and humidity is always a problem here . I've yet to see any rust in my liner , and my babymig spends a lot of time outdoors under a carport . I HAVE found some light rust on a 30 lb roll of .025 ER70S6 wire , though not enough to affect performance .

Lincoln contacted me yesterday, and are sending a free gun. Big whoop. I doubt it will help any, but will try it anyway. When I shunt the trigger spade contacts, it still runs on/off/on/off/on/off, so I think it is a circuit board. Everything else is tight, polarity correct, drive roller tension correct, wingnut loose enough to allow spool to rotate .......................

I'm going to take the case off and just look inside, seeing if I can see any obvious loose wire or connector. Will pull any spades and sand contacts.

I'm going to look at a Miller.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote

Is there a current equivalent to the old MillerMatic 200? I bought one in

1984 for $1250, IIRC that included a Makita chop saw. Other than replace guns, I never did ANYTHING to it. I may upgrade to a big roll-around. Suggestions? If I could find another 200 that was lost in a time warp, or just never used, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

My friend has and loves a Millermatic 250X that I sold to him, I have a 251.

You will be just as happy with a used Millermatic 250 (non-digital).

i

Long ago, when I had the MillerMatic 200, my neighbor, who had to have the newest latest most expensive whatever got one of the new Lincoln digitals. Brag, brag, brag, brag on how much better it was than the Miller. It was nothing but headaches. He was always borrowing mine, or bringing work in because his was on the fritz and not working or in the shop.

Steve

I am firmmly in the BLUE camp when it comes to welders.

i

"Ignoramus6457" wrote in

I was about equal. Now, I'm definitely leaning BLUE.

Steve

Man, oh man... I would love to swing by your place with a U-Haul, forklift, and about 5k (or more) burning a hole in my wallet.

I would love to snag that welding table- is it truly dead flat? I'd turn it into an outfeed/assembly table in my wife's woodshop, and I could weld attachments to it as needed (shelves, hangers and such) and drill holes for fixture pins, tap others for bolts....

Gosh darn it, Gunner! What I already have is never quite enough.

Have you got an I-beam type rail with a (1 or 2 ton) hoist on it? One of them in my shop would be really nifty. Besides- then I could move that gorgeous table!

you do not need a forklift to unload it.