Miller Blue Fire 180

A friend has the subject unit. He thinks that the circuit board has some failed componets. The board has conformal coating so it would be
hard to find the bad device(s). The least expensive price for a board that he has found is about $1000. Is there a more reasonable place or does any one know who might repair these boards. The diagram calls the board PC1 and the parts list indicates a part number, 179 437. Thanks for any help. Dave Foreman Tucson
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What are the symptoms exactly?
i

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If a part burned - you could see it. Fuses can be seen - might be a fuse or a wire...
Look for corrosion from moisture causing a short...
Is it the arc points that don't crackle ?
Is this a Miller SD 180 ? So TIG and Stick ?
Martin
Ignoramus31381 wrote:

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On Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:24:19 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"

I am waiting on the sysptoms from the owner. This is a Honda 13 HP engine driven welder. There is a big full wave bridge Rect. to get DC. The electronics board controls the field to control the amps. And it does a couple of other things as well. It monitors the generator temp. There are 120 and perhaps 240 receptacles depending on the exact socket setup. Thanks for the replies. Dave Foreman
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Dave Foreman wrote:

This is one of the few areas where Miller has done a less than stellar job, many of their circuit boards are not manufactured to be maintainable. It is very frustrating when you believe you could simply replace an opamp or something on a weld idle control board but the board is all sealed and potted and no longer available at any price and ridiculously priced even when available. My knowledge isn't exhaustive, but most red welders I've seen have nice boards with discrete components on them.
GWE
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wrote:

I saw the owner today and he has taken the unit in to get checked out and the tech told him the problem was on the circuit board. Dave Foreman
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wrote:

Thanks, Winston. I had already downloaded that manual. Dave Foreman
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Dave Foreman wrote:

I guess the unit is over the 3 year Parts and Labor warranty, yes?
All the PM starting on page 22 been accomplished?
How about the stuff mentioned on page 26 WRT engine shutting down? Voltage measurements on the ignition switch prove that it (or the oil sensor) are not intermittently shorting?
Both the 'over temp' sensors shown on page 28 are operating properly?
Enquiring Minds...
--Winston
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wrote:

I repaired a friends Miller Mig machine last year, he was told $800 for the main board, it was a bad over temp switch on the heat sink. Less than $20.00 for the part.
Thank You, Randy
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I should add this sounds like an engine problem.
Thank You, Randy
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thanks for the reply, Randy. Dave Foreman
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replying to Winston, Kevin wrote: How do I remove the armature from the engine, it's a blue fire 180 and Honda 13 hp
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Hard_ware had written this in response to http://polytechforum.com/welding/re-miller-blue-fire-180-15461-.htm : The pc board can be repaired, the mosfet that drive the revolving field has probably shorted out. Check the two white wires that go to the brushes. Measure the each one to ground while disconnected from the brushes, any shorts to ground pc board needs to be repaired. The revolving fields should measure around 10-12 ohms good, put meter leads on the terminals connected to the brushes with wires disconnected. 2-3 ohms your revolving field is bad.
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replying to Hard_ware, V-man wrote:

I'm finding your suggestions priceless, in my search for a "No output from RC1, RC2 nor welding leads." A burnt wire at ring of moveable winding is the cause, but unsure if worn brushes or welding incident, began the problem. click to open the full size version of the image
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I have received the sysmptom from the owner. He says that the engine will bog down or even quit when he strikes an arc. Thanks Dave Foreman
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wrote:

There might be nothing wrong with the welder circuit, it could be an engine problem, try a tune up?? bad gas??
I think you said it had 120V outlets, what does it do if you load them up?
Thank You, Randy
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