QUICK!

I put an ad for a used welder. An old gentleman just called me with a Lincoln SA 200 with trailer and a Victor torch setup and he'll take $300 for it all. He says the carb needs cleaning, and it won't run.

Best case scenario, I clean the carb, throw a tune up on it, and it runs. Worst case, it doesn't.

In both cases, I think it's a deal. If it runs, it's a home run. If the engine is toast, the rest of the stuff should be worth that much, and maybe getting a replacement engine won't be too bad.

He says it has a 4 cyl flathead engine, indicating to me it may be a Continental engine.

Can anyone give me some quick tips before 10 AM tomorrow about what to look for, how to tell what engine it is, etc. He says it's on a Miller trailer, and that should be worth $300. I asked him if it was a red face, but he didn't know. Sounds like he's had it a long time.

Thanks in advance.

WooHoo

Steve

Reply to
SteveB
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The old F series Continental engines had the distributor in the center of the cylinder head. There was a smaller Y series and I am not sure about where its distributor is. There should be a tag about midway along the block on the side opposite the manifolds. A Google search should give you some Continental engine pictures. These engines are very simple and easy to repair but parts are pretty pricey when compared to automobile engines.

Don Young

Reply to
Don Young

Steve, If you get the welder here's a site that might be of interest:

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Others might/should add input about the ign upgrade as I am passing on jus the info - no experience with either the item or the company.

If it were close to me I'd sure find the $300

Reply to
John Miller

I do not claim to be a Lincoln expert but, There should be a data plate on the engine that will list the make and model, I suspect it will be an F-162, IIRC these were installed in Lincolns (F-163 in Millers). IIRC the continental engines with the center mounted distributor (F-163) were more commonly used on Miller welders. YMMV. The earlier (and maybe most) of these engines in Lincoln welders used a magneto ignition, the magneto was mounted on the front of the engine lower right in front of the governor. I can not remember when (or even if) Lincoln changed to a distributor ignition. The very early engines did not even have starters and were started with a crank. IIRC the 'classic' Lincoln SA200 was model 6090. There are differences in both hood length and control panels, IIRC short hoods and flat panels are oldest and long hoods and recessed panels are later. I suspect that Lincoln or Continental would be able to tell you the date of manufacture if you have the serial number, perhaps one of the Lincoln guys here has a link. There are other differences in construction and some used aluminum windings, in general the older models are very highly thought of but many need to have the small exciter armature replaced or rewound.

IMHO a good Victor torch set including full set of cutting and welding tips would be a fair deal at $300. and a good roadworthy trailer is probably also worth the same. I see some of these welders going for several thousand $ in good operating condition and suspect that almost any example is worth $300 if only for parts.

Look inside the welding generator to check for burnt smell or thrown solder or copper, look at both commentators. I would ensure that there are no con rods hanging out the side of the block and that the engine is not seized. Many of these engines fill up with rainwater if the exhaust has not been covered. Drain the oil to check for water and refill with clean oil before cranking. If you have access to a bore scope you could look inside the cylinders for scoring or rust and also for cylinder top ring wear. Fill the rad with antifreeze to check for cracked block from frozen water. If you can get a spark when cranking the engine I would use a squirt oil can to squirt gas into the carb when cranking and it may even run a bit. Moisture in the mag can be a problem and you may need to dry this out. These welders can be started by motoring the generator from another similar DC welding generator and I suspect that this may also function check the generator and exciter but ????YMMV.

I suspect that you have a real find that is unlikely to be a bad deal and I would be inclined to grab it fast before word gets around or the seller has second thoughts.

Change the oil, flush the fuel and cooling systems, change all the rubber parts and hoses and service the carb and magneto and hope for the best. If not equipped with an oil filter add one. Consider investing in auto shutdown gauges for oil and coolant temp. If this unit has a generator (or uncommon alternator) plan on replacing it with a standard (same as your truck) alternator.

Good luck.

Reply to
Private

Thanks. Lots of info. About the only thing I see that's uncommon is an aftermarket remote oil filter. The old guy said it uses a roll of toilet paper. I can see the lines are rubber and rotted. My old man had a '55 Chevy he bought new, and never used anything but a roll of TP. He was a machinist and a flight engineer with the USAC.

I'll start at the beginning. Oil. Water. Pull the distributor cap. Pull the plugs. Check for broken wires. The usual. It did still have the rain flap on the exhaust stack. All in all, not too rusty or crusty. I just got it home about dark, and I still have a list of stuff to do, so will putter a bit here and there and post results.

Luckily weather is getting better here, and it's bearable to get out early in the mornings now.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

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