Need advice on rebuilding drill press

back with a piece of copper, then fill holes with weld, grind to match ( a cup grinder in the chuck works really well for this :.) )

or fill with milliput for a quicker, untidier fix.

weld it closed, rebore or (again) milliput and rebore

or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill) can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?

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or: (since I'm not familiar with this drill) can you just make the hole bigger, and use a bigger pin?

sorry - I meant to say that is pin that retains the handle on the pinion shaft

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After re-examining the parts I think it was a taper pin that held the handle on the pinion shaft (although the one side is butchered it explains the size difference between the two sides). Don't know if I will get such a pin here.

Tim

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As far as the table is concerned, welding, if done well, would certainly be the best solution. However, I had good results on a rather less butchered drill table using home-made metal filler. I mixed up some standard two-pack epoxy resin (Araldite), and gradually added clean cast-iron filings until I got a stiff paste. I packed this into the cleaned and thoroughly degreased holes in the table, then faced it off when it had set hard. 5 years later it's still in place and barely noticeable.

HTH Mike

Does it taper enough so that if you file the hole smooth (possibly ream out the hole to be circular again), the pin will fit, just further in?

--Howzabout making a top plate? It could be more versatile and you can customize it for special purposes.

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Failing a bigger pin, could you not drill and ream a new hole 90deg to the original in at least the shaft, possibly both the shaft and handle? Taper-pin reamers are pretty easy to come by.

Richard

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All things considered I think a top plate is the best option for me.

I hauled out my small taper reamers (imperial - I have never used them, got them as part of complete lathe setup - coincidently from the estate of a gentleman named Tom Gardner who wrote some articles for ME) and the taper matches a 7/32 but the remaer comes out at quite angle, not perpendicular to the shaft.

So I have deiced that I am not going to slavishly try get it back to its original look - I am going to make a new handle assembly and forgo the gruaduated collar ring that would necessitate me using the original hole in the pinion shaft.

PS any body know how to get the pulley (aluminum) off the top of the spindle ? I was wondering if I could knock the whole spindle and pulley up from the bottom through the hole vacated by the quill ?

Tim

make or buy a gear puller - percussive maintenance tends to break pulleys, especially the edges.

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I was really concerned about this part but it turned out to be dead easy - I put my 3 arm puller over the pulley and turned up the tension and used a heat gun to heat the pulley after a few minutes it literly popped up.

Removing the table spigot from its bracket was a cinch (ha ha) - It was so simple - use the cinch bolt in "reverse" to open the bracket a fraction.

It is sometimes good to leave problems stew in your head for a while and not just have at them!

Tim