Adding Flare

JR,

Monokote makes a trim solvent that is used to apply Monokote over Monokote. You can cut out trim pieces of contrasting color Monokote, wipe a thin film of the solvent (or acetone) on the base color and then carefully place the trim pieces over it while smoothing out any bubbles as you go - no heat needed.

Monokote also takes LusterKote spray paint or any number of other brands like Krylon well. I have had one plane for twenty years that has paint over Monokote.

Good luck!

So Krylon works well on coverings and is fuel proof? Cool...

I hope you meant flair.

If not, just douse it in fuel and put a match to it. That should cover your requirements nicely.....:-)

Its pot available in teh US under the same name, but in teh UK you can get a sort of solvent called PRYMIL that etches the covering slightly and allows paint to be sprayed on. Thats one way to get semi-airbrush effects using cardboard masks etc.

Othertechniques are sahpes cut out of peel-and0-stick vinyl, or garisjh bits of monokote. I like fluorescent meself for visibility.

If you have a drawng package and inkjet printer you xan get inkjet compatible Vinyl and do crazy stuff with that.

Follow it all up with sprayed on fuel proofer if using paint or inkjet.

I am getting to the point where creating weird military aicraft out of boring kits is the best part...

Whats thet stuff called? Its pnds the same as UK PRYMOL which also allows the monokote to take paint. I am always getting asked what the US equivalent is...

I am leaning towards masking and spray painting. Do I need to pretreat the covering first or will Krylon/Lusterkote adhere without prior prepping?

I've got an idea that I've still not tried yet...

Rev up the engine on the plane and chuck a tin of paint thro' the prop... should make a lovely pattern...

-- Philip Rawson

Got some news for you... Krylon is NOT fuel proof... and it don't stick to Monokote.

Rustoleum is and does. But you have to burnish the monokote with 000 steel wool at the point you're going to paint.

Good Luck!

On 12/17/2003 4:48 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

If you are going to pain ANY film covering you will need to mask off the area to paint and LIGHTLY scuff/burnish the area. 0000 steel wool OR the green pot scrubbers (foam on one side, green pad on the other) work well. Prime and then paint. MOST paints are not fuel RESISTANT. SOME Rustoleum colors are, Krylon paint is not. LusterKote is PROVIDED you use their primer. UltraCote is also, but will most likely not match any of the MonoKote colors. "Dupli-Color" automotive spray paint (acrylic Lacquer) is fuel resistant to ABOUT 15%. Play it safe and top coat it with LusterKote/UltraCote clear OR Min Wax Polyurethane (fuel resistant to ABOUT 15%)

You can also use different color MonoKote. Cut to the shape you want, clean the area with rubbing alcohol, spray the area with BLUE Windex, and "float" into position. Let dry for 24 - 48 hrs and reseal the edges with MonoKote trim sealant or an iron.

Thanks Ted.. useful info...

Automotive clear coats are usually VERY fuel proof. All of the acrylic enamels are good as are the polyurethanes. I use House of Kolor polyurethane and it is fuel proof to at least 50% nitro. Others in the club use Sherwyn Williams acrylic enamel with the same fuel proof results.

Respectfully disagree, Fr. Marty.....

Sandpaper or steel wool will induce microscopic cuts into the covering that can easily result in rips under the stress of violent maneuvers... Anything used to mechanically dull the covering will damage it, but if you MUST "scuff" the covering, a green Scotchbrite pad is about the friendliest tool for the job

For a non-invasive solution, try Sherwin-Williams #UPO7226 Plastic Adhesion Promoter. This aerosol product is used to make automotive paints stick to plastic repair parts.

A light mist over CLEAN MonoKote will make Rustoleum stick like stink....

Cheers,

Bill