Which is something I did on a regular basis when I was a teen.
I am still looking for some application of blacksmithing that would be
useful in some practical way (as opposed to making decorations). That
was the attraction of the chuck key straightening.
I agree with Lloyd in that it was not the most practical thing to do.
I think forged metal is generaly stronger than machined. You could make
tools such as screwdrivers, punches, chisels, or knives. Anyway you look at
it, it is good to have more skills and abilities. A guy I worked with at
the machine shop had a friend in school. The guy was working on an art
project and he was trying to make a piece of steel round using a forge,
anvil, and hammer. The guy I worked with saw a metal lathe in the shop and
asked his friend why he didn't just turn it on the lathe, the guy didn't
know how to use a lathe. So the machinist helped him machine the round
part. The point to this being that the more you know, the more capable
you'll be to pick the best process to make what you need to make.
The ends are bat ends - like switches.
And that could be a copy of a short one.
Did it have a raised center that cut into the hole ?
Even that is possible.
The S curve might have been from the chuck rotating on the ways....
But I suspect it was set for another reach over tool. - Kinda like a
nut driver that fits over the end of the key and over the rods.
That might have been a motor drive chuck key. You know managers -
more and more and faster..... ;-)
Ignoramus26369 fired this volley
in news:w7ydndKmL6Tu083UnZ2dnUVZ email@example.com:
That's called knurling. I have a knurling tool. When I fabricate a
shop-made handle that needs "grip", I knurl it.
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" fired this volley
BTW... THAT particular knurl isn't for gripping. It's to make the pin -
that is fitted to slide into the hole - a tight fit in its middle.
That's what it is for, so that the pin would stay in the middle.
I thought that a knurl was a pattern where the ridges would be a lot
closer to each other, in this case they were relatively far from one
another, in relation to their height.
Ignoramus25152 fired this volley
in news:kZqdnRhHlbNuds3UnZ2dnUVZ_v firstname.lastname@example.org:
Knurling rollers are available in any number of patterns, and can be
custom-made for specific things -- like puffing up the o.d. of a pin.
I like to bend nails ;-)
I just forge welded, twisted and opened 8 nails, four small, four large,
loop on one end spike on the other.
The small item is a unisex pendant.
The large item also has some marbles trapped in the "basket", to be hung
in front of a window.
P.S. The idea was provided on another blacksmith list.
Ignoramus25152 fired this volley
in news:qdKdnYaNiqPhEczUnZ2dnUVZ email@example.com:
Just so we keep this on the up-n-up... the "knurl" on your part is
probably not done with a knurling wheel, but with a press, and a die
and punch, both equipped with an edge that can stamp the grooves into
the pin. Likely, the pin is rotated once, twice, or three times to
get the spacing of the grooves approximately (but not precisely)
distributed around the circumference.
Because the pin is small, it doesn't take too many "stripes" to make
it enlarge, and work of a tiny diameter isn't as conducive to wheel
knurling as larger work.
O.K. It is common to make a straight knurl to give something to
bite into the body of the key so the handle won't slip out. Sounds as
though yours was a diamond knurl instead -- not quite as good for the
purpose, but probably what he was set up for.
I agree with others that that was not the original handle, just
a well made shop-made one. Depending on the size of the chuck key, they
either have a much shorter T-handle, or a handle which has one end
squashed down to an oval flat for the thumb, and the other end a plain
bar, still not as long as yours is. I prefer the T handle to the one
with the thumb rest, because you can easily use it in either of two
180-degree separated orientations, so the wear on the gear teeth is
evened out a bit more. Even so, I've seen them so badly worn that they
won't work either way around.
Unlikely, as that it most likely the key for a Jacobs style
drill chuck, not a lathe chuck. Though I do have a 3-jaw lathe chuck
for my Compact-5/CNC lathe (5" swing) which uses a drill chuck type key
to rotate the scroll plate relative to the body.
Then you could perhaps have gotten the story which went with the
chuck. I would have liked to hear that.
The pictures are identical to my key.
And read this:
From the Manufacturer
The Jacobs K5 T-Handle Chuck Key with 7/16-Inch pilot size can be used
for Jacobs 20N chuck and other compatible chucks with 7/16-Inch pilot
size. The Jacobs K5 is equipped with Nickel T-Handle grip styles to
increase leverage and user comfort, while the soft steel handles limit
the potential for dangerous fracturing under excessive loads. Each
Jacobs K5 T-Handle Handle Chuck Key includes a one year factory
warranty. The Jacobs K5 Thumb Handle Chuck Key is a part of Jacobs
comprehensive selection of precision crafted keys to meet any need.
Soft steel handles limit the potential for dangerous fracturing under
excessive load. Self ejecting models with spring-loaded ejectors
ensure key disengagement after tightening.
(soft steel handle == easy to bend to pretzel shape)
But have you seen a K5 key? I think that this is such a big chuck, and
they key is simply different. I have a small collection of Jacobs
chucks and keys (11N, 14N, 16N, 18N, 20N IIRC, though I may get rid of
the 20N). The other keys are as you describe. But 20N is a giant