OT -5 cylinder ford ranger part III - transmission seals

91 ranger. 3.0 Liter turbo (Just kidding about the turbo part, made you look)
the saga continues.... And yes I did get it to run as a 5 cylinder, for
a little while, till I decided it wasn't worth the risk, and rebuilt/swapped in a 6 cyl.
Next saga. Transmission is leaking from the front seal. However, it only starts leaking after about 30 minutes of driving. (Why would that be?)
What is involved in dropping the tranny/replacing the seal? Is it worth it? Or should we swap the tranny for another? Rebuild? We can "probably" replace the entire truck for the cost of a tranny rebuild.
ca
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Shouldn't be any different than your garden variety rwd truck....I'd simply pull and replace the seal throw it back together...simple enough but do make sure and loosen the torque converter bolts from where they attaches to the flexplate re-tighten these *after* all the bellhousing bolts are installed or else runout will cause the new seal to leak....
Actually it's a fairly straight forward job and a staple for any reputable transmission shop those guys are uniquely set up to quickly and effeciently R&R auto transmissions and so your standard labor charge is probably gonna be less than 2 hours labor at shop rate
Anyways if you do it yourself then while your at it suggest drop the pan and replace fluid, screen and gasket *don't overtighten the pan bolts* or the sheetmetal will deform and the damned thing will always leak after that--Oh and I always used some sewing thread to line it up...and if you use silicone then only apply to the transmission side of the cork--this way then usually on any subsequent removal the gasketing remains intact.
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simply
make
Also it wipes out the input bearing this is typically a sleeve type with babbit lining.

effeciently
and
that--Oh
silicone
usually
OOPS mean't to say apply to pan side only.

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Biggest pain in the ass is getting the exhuast pipes out of the way. Lets see... the '91 still has the big crossmember for the the strut rods?? If so, that is a pain to get it out of the way.
Other than that, not anything special, pull tranny, knock seal out of front pump housing, put new one in, slip torque converter back on, tranny back in, and as OAB says tighten trans to engine before tightening torque converter bolts to flexplate.
Beg, borrow, steal, rent, a trans jack! I would drain hot(operating temp)fluid and replace filter BEFORE pulling the tranny. That way, the fluid drains while you are fighting the exhaust pipes and crossmember.
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