how to bypass dremel tool internal variable speed control?



It sounds like you're describing a light dimmer circuit. See http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/dimmer.asp for an example of a typical circuit. If your circuit is like that one, running a jumper wire across TR1 will get you going at full speed. I presume you can figure out which two of the three thyrister leads. And you do know your safety rules for working with mains powered equipment, right?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com wrote:

That's a simple phase control SCR circuit. the diode is a DIAC.. etc.. if it's not firing, I would check the pot and resistor.
--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sep 10, 11:55 am, Jamie

Trace it with a volt meter. Probably a bad solder job and the heat from the controller loosened something up. Easy fix if you have a decent iron.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com wrote:

I'm not positive, but I would think if you just soldered a wire around the speed control it would run at full speed, I could be wrong though.
-Landon
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com wrote:

If you cannot figure that out by looking, you probably should not be dicking around with it.
The last fried speed control in a chinese one I bought, took a buck's worth of a new triac to fix.
Cheers Trevor Jones
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
the speed control is a triac based phase control, the same as a light dimmer - typically it has two wires, just short the two wires together and the dremel will run full speed all the time.
by the way, typical failure is just noisy pot, try cleaning carbon track

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
William Noble wrote:

Mine had a smd triac BT134W which was faulty.
I replaced it (easy!!) with a new one, and the dremel has worked years after that. The triac costs about 1 usd.. The parts are on a white ceramic circuitboard.
Kristian Ukkonen.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hillpc wrote ...

. . .

This is one of those cases where "If you don't know already, you probably shouldn't be doing the job".
The wiring should be simple enough to do it by inspection. If it isn't, you really need the schematic and the ability to understand it.
Unlike the other poster, I really doubt that the motor speed control is just a pot.
--
Bill Fuhrmann



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks, folks. This discussion is exactly the type of info I needed.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
after you make your temporary repair, dremel sells all the parts you might need for a nominal cost if you call customer service.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sep 9, 9:21 pm, snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com wrote:

Not to dig up an old topic, but I just ran into this http://mondo-technology.com/dremel.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

If it runs at all, hopefully at full speed, jst plug it in to a sewing machine rheostat, Works fine for me.
Boris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 19:21:41 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@emailaccount.com wrote:

1) Turn knob all the way up.
2) Apply large piece of tape onto knob, such that it can no longer be turned.
3) Use fixed setting tool.
Problem: You are allowing to much dust from whatever you are using the tool on to get into the inner works of the dremel. The tape will seal it off, for one thing. You could actually seal it off at a speed other than max as well.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
replying to Claude Desjardins, Tinydikswinger wrote: 120 psi hell if you are running the HF junkers have some fun and give em @ 180 -190psi ...They have a much diffrent sound at those pressures and the neighbors will all be over finding out jusy what the hell all that screaming is about. I usually run my high speed cutoffs and such that high but get good wheels because them Chinese garbage discs will wear out quick as all heck and they tend to fly apart at wellheck any speed so save yourself a trip to the ER and at least use good abrasives. Now party on fellers and lets also get them 7 1/4" saw cutoff wheels on them 4 1/2" angle grinders,they gyrate like no other and are only 1 hand operated then but its like supercharging your lil grinder. Rip shit and have fun
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I once put on well-balanced 7 1/4" thin rip blade on a 4 1/2" angle grinder and cut down all the branches of the top half of a huge maple tree faster than a chainsaw. Then cut into short lengths ... zing zing
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.