HPC Blitz Space Adjustment

shouldn't have to adjust anything. had my 1200 CM for 20 years, machine was even in a fire and never had to "adjust" anything. however, this link should help ya...

Small set screws that hold the carriage on to the rod. If you are real persnickety on spacing adjustment, if you put the medico cutter on the machine, you can make shallow V notches.

With the micrometer card installed insert a blank, and make 2 "kiss" cuts.

Make the first one at .100" from the shoulder and the second one at .200".

Now take the key blank with the two "kiss" cuts and slide it in your microfiche reader. Focus sharply and measure the distance on the screen between the tow cuts. When I measure this distance I use my dial calipers. This is an eyeball measurement, but since you are enlarging what you are measuring by about 30 times you reduce the error by the same factor.

Once you have this measurement, figure out how much larger the image on the screen is than the two notches. Example if the measured distance on the screen is 3.00 inches, since you know the distance between the kiss cuts is .100 then you have a 30X image. so for each .001 in reality you should have .030 difference on the screen.

Once this is known, take a measurement of the distance between the shoulder and the first "kiss" cut. If the spacing on your machine is dead on, the distance should be equal, if it is off, you figure out how much it is off, and you know how far you need to move the vice to compensate.

Lets say you find out that you need to move the vice .035". I would then mount a slotter to the machine and glue on a .035 master pin to the side of the slotter. In the vice I would clamp an L shaped thing into the vise and touch the edge of the slotter, and then loosen the set screws, and now slide the carriage on the pin until it touches the master pin. Snug it down and measure.

This method, I have found dials you in a whole lot faster.

There is a note of caution here, this adjustment is for the bottom/tip stop only, once that is properly adjusted the top shoulder stop is adjustable as a separate adjustment.

To remove the master pin from the side of the cutter that you superglued on, touch a soldering iron to the master pin and melt the glue bond. Any residue can then be removed with a razor or with acetone.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for taking the time to answer me.Appreciate it! Nina