Interesting! I'm afraid I'd have to come down on the side of the hotroders in this instance. I've bored all but one of the engines I've rebuilt and have had outstanding results. I might agree with not boring a diesel, where compression ratio is very high and thinning the walls might lead to problems, but for a gas engine, even one with 10:1 compression, I've always had very good results. The sleeved engines offer one advantage, that of one being able to do a complete rebuild and still use standard parts, though pulling and pushing the sleeves sure isn't exactly a shade tree industry.
Harold
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Ernie Leimkuhler
Exactly how am I supposed to buy a Japanese 22R engine block from Japan, when not a single engine importer handles them?
Do you know of some cheap way to buy an engine block from Japan that hasn't been used since 1995?
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Ernie Leimkuhler
I have no idea. All I know is that they can't be had from any importer in the US. Nobody, nada, nil, not a one, never to be had.
C
clare
Definitely do it on the bench. You need to pull the crank - and doing that in the truck is not worth the aggravation.
rebuild it right, and you should get another 185,000 out of it.
You WILL need the crank reground, or most likely replaced. If the mains did not spin, and the rod did not smash the block, the block MAY be re-useable, but will likely require reboring - and having already been rebuilt once, it may be close to the limit.
Find a good low mileage Celica? - much easier to find than the truck, and uses the same engine.
The Toyota engine manual, if you can find it.
Out on the "left coast" a lot of Toyota cab and chassis units were converted into mini motorhomes. Should be able to find a beater with a good 1 ton HD rear end you can get cheap and bolt on - duallys and all.
C
clare
Remember, the Toyota oil pump is on the crank. Fill it with heavy oil on assembly, and fill the filter with light oil. Use a good engine assembly lube (Lucas oil treetment works good, or use Moly) and you will have oil pressure in about 5 or 6 cranks. Crank it without plugs antil the pressure comes up, then put the plugs in, fire it up, and hold it at 2000 rpm for a few minutes.
Put a new input shaft bearing in while you have it apart. About 90% of toyota standard trans problems start with the input bearing. Many then show up as a countershaft bearing.
C
clare
The JDM 20R and 22R engines CAN be used in the states - but you must use the US fuel and ignition systems. Older than '83 you don't need to warry much about it either way - in most juristictions they are exempt from test after 20 years.
C
clare
Did they all come to Canada? They were scarce, because not too many JDM vehicles used the 20 and 22R series engines. They used a lot of
16R and 18R engines, not to mention 3R and 5R.(push rod) engines.
26 passenger Coaster busses, and Dyna trucks run around with 5R engines as standard - or 2Land 3L series diesels. The B series diesel (used in the old Land Cruisers over here) get put into some serious heavy metal.
22RGE engines (twin cam) were used in some Cressidas and Executives over there, as well as in some Coasters and the odd one got into rally Celicas.
J
jim rozen
THis sounds like one of those old stories that go something like:
"My brother-in-law knew this guy, his uncle had a friend who knew how to buy those ww2 surplus jeeps, brand-new still packed in cosmoline, for a hundred bucks. No kidding, would I lie to you?"
Jim
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M
mact
You might want to find the parts and what they cost first. Toyota parts are not cheap. michael
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Old Nick
On 23 Sep 2003 13:28:34 -0700, jim rozen wrote something ......and in reply I say!:
I have a 67 Stout, very little rust. I also have an 86 Dyna Dual Cab. Small rust in the back doors at the bottom. Cars now, I don't know.
****************************************************************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments.
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Old Nick
On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:49:05 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote something ......and in reply I say!:
I am no mechanic. Just a DIY nut with lots of motors.
Don't know about your insurance people, but when I looked into this they were pretty leery of any mods.
My first rebuild. I did up my Stout petrol motor years ago. I was nervous. I had had the top off a motor bike engine, but that was it.
If you are a "rebuild virgin", get another old engine and do that up. That's what I did. I got an old junked motor, and pulled it down, and built it up. I replaced no parts, but felt happier about diving in after that. I had seen where everything went.
It was much later that I blew up the Stout motor by not re-seating the distributor properly on a "minor" (read less care!) job. No oil pump drive. Defective oil light. D'OH.
So that was why I rebuilt that engine twice .
When you first want to start the engine, make sure all the warning lights are red, before you ever turn that motor over!
One thing. I have told this against myself before. Don't try to assess the situation. Be the Meccano man who disassembles and reassembles. I bought all the right gear: micrometers, inner and outer; dial gauges; you name it. I was only going to "do the necessary work" to save money. I took all sorts of measurements and had bugger all idea what I was looking for. I took the motor bits down to the engineering shop. The guy stuck his finger in the bore and scratched the ring ridges with his nail..."hmmmm 30 thou "(or whatever) "or so I reckon".... "hmmmm....two oversized on the big end" etc etc....Bah! They did all the machining, and sold me a rebuild kit to fit.
Bench. Bench.Bench. Did I say Bench?
If this is a single-cab, then lifting the engine should be easy.
Rebuilding on a bench is:
- clean
- controllable
- a joy - getting the engine in and out is a PITA. Working on the motor itself on the bench is fascinating and almost meditative. I did the motor, gearbox and clutch. I still remember doing it with joy. I had never touched any of these before. Took my time (like you I had other transport). An engine, and also a gearbox, is a wonderful thing. - working in-vehicle is terrible.
Maybe a rotating engine stand would be the next step. But have a clean bench right next door. _Lots_ of boxes for bits. At least 20-30 boxes. Each to be labelled. Sounds anal, but it can make things easier. Probably the better you get, the less you need the boxes
Assuming manual. No crunches at gearchange? No grumbling or whining?
But definitely look at doing the clutch and flywheel while the engine is out.
AH. Now THERE'S the problem
By what? The engine failure, or a weakness of the block? Whatver, this is eomsthing you can only tell when you get it down to the engineering shop. maybe point out that _you_ have a source of blocks, so thaye are not tempted?
I ask because my Dyna (diesel) may well have a cracked head. It's really hard to get an uncracked head secondhand If I get one welded up it may crack again. New ones cost a fortune, but I thought I had to go that way. Then it occurred to me that since it's impossible to get a secondhand uncracked head, then there are probably dozens of these motors toodling around with cracked heads, including maybe mine, happy as larry. Sorry.I digress.
Genuine Toyota manual. My Dyna one is amazing. The Stout one was also very good. If you have trouble try
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Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !!
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Carl Byrns
Then you need to do a complete and brutally honest inspection of the truck- nothing like dumping a ton of money into the engine only to have the electrical system go up in flames. Seen it.
Any pickup that's worked for a living and has that many miles on it will likely have started to sag in the middle- it's inevitable- and is probably getting ready for some big-bucks front end work. Not to mention dried out rubber body seals and brake hoses and a lot of other stuff that just ages.
Never love something that can't love you back.
If you do decide to rebuild the 22R, you should replace the timing chain- when they get old, they break suddenly and smash the expensive timing case casting to smithereens.
-Carl
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Ernie Leimkuhler
Yes but where would you get one? All the Japanese engine importers claim not to carry 22Rs.
J
Joe Kultgen
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The 20R and later the 22R weren't just car and truck motors. I've seen them powering forklifts, towable generators, and other industrial equipment. For all I know the engine may still be in production even though it's obsolete for automotive use. Where on earth did you get the idea that an engine for a twenty year old truck had to *be* twenty years old?
Later, Joe
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