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ANOTHER Onan DJE generator starting problem! (Monday)

If they are not visibly broken the fault is in the main body of the coil and is not repairable. Makes an interesting paperweight.

When you get your new solenoid proper install will insure a long life.

  1. Make sure the linkage is properly adjusted. The plunger MUST completely seat in the bore when the solenoid is energized!!! The plunger seats against a spring loaded button in the bottom of the bore, the button operates the contacts in the back of the casing that disconnects the pull in coil. The pull in coil draws between 20 & 30 amps the hold in maybe 2 amps. If that spring loaded button isn't fully depressed you can get arcing across the contacts in the back, This of course will destroy the contacts, but it also will heat up the pull in coil enough to destroy the integrity of the enamel insulation of the hold in coil and cause burn out.
  2. Clean and lube the plunger, do not use oil. a light body grease is used at the factory. Try to find a low temp grease, I use one made by
3M that is good to -50 F. Your big enemy here is rust on the plunger. BTW some of these plungers are plated don't damage it with abrasives when you clean it.
  1. Try to insure the solenoid gets maximum voltage. Check your wiring for frays and dirty connections. Use the right battery. You want a starting battery not a deep cycle. A deep cycle is designed to be slowly discharged a starting battery is set up to give you a lot of amps quick. Look for something with a CCA of at least 500 amps. My own preference is a group 31 with threaded studs. It has plenty of power, the studs get rid of the lead posts and their corrosion problems. Plus it is usually available a truck stops and heavy equipment dealers cheap (.00 to
65.00 USA)
  1. Use the right battery cables. Minimum of 1 gauge. This will also lengthen the life of the starter, and spin the motor faster for easier starting. These recommendations come from 30 years working on small 2 to 4 cyl diesels in reefer units. Good luck. Dave
Reply to
Dave Morrison
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I will follow your suggestion to the letter. Thanks.

Okay. I have some silicone lubricant. Would that do?

I have a marine deep cycle/starting battery, 800+ amps at 0F.

Thanks Dave. I have 4 gauge starting cables, I think, will look for heavier ones.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus21494

Sorry, make it 800 amps at 32F.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus21494

If its a lube and not a dielectric grease and has good low temp specs it should work.

If you got it use it. But combo batteries are a compromise. Unless you have a need for deep cycle when this one dies get a straight starting battery.

Welding supply store or heavy equipment truck parts store.

Dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison

Thanks. I wonder though, should it not be properly lubricated at the factory?

First of all, I have a boat and I need a marine battery. Second, a marine battery can crank for longer because it has more amp hours, at least I think so.

Thanks, I appreciate.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus21494

It probably will not come with a plunger and is shipped dry.

No it can't crank longer it can discharge longer at a relatively low rate. Look at the cold cranking amps CCA. Batteries are designed for specific purposes. A group 31 is designed to crank diesel engines.

Got a call, I'm off to a job. Good luck. Dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison

Ah, I see. Thanks.

Oh, I see. Thanks. Live and learn, I guess.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus21494

I agree with Dave about the cables, if they are very long. If you are talking about a few feet then the differences between 4 and 1 would be slight. IMP I welding or locomotive cable as it is called sometimes is great though expensive. I have used MTW wire. Stands for machine tool wire, "a whole lotta tiny wires" very similar to welding cable but comes in THWN and XHHW insulation which can last longer in the sun light. ( big deal where I live ). Your not going to find MTW at the box stores

Also the connections from the cable to the terminal to the post is another place of importance. I have an T&B 3 crimper that I use to put the terminals on. This makes an very air tight connection a lot like a factory battery cable. I also like to use grade 5 bolts they hold up better to the corrosive nature of batteries.

Reply to
SQLit

My saga goes on. The solenoid that I bought from Onan turned out to be completely wrong. The correct one costs, drumroll, $370 something. I almost fainted when I heard that. WTF!

I am going to go to McMaster-Carr today (they have an office 30 minutes from me) and pick up a 12V DC 1" linear pull solenoid of similar dimensions. The pull force is 80 oz, which I hope will be enough. The solenoid draws 11 watts (1 amp), which I hope won't overload the control system. I will have to do some "metalworking" to fit an adjustable nut on it and fit it into the system, but I am hopeful.

I am building a cushioned carriage for it, see my progress at

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I also added a 1/2"ID NPT pipe and a ball valve for ease of draining oil. See the bottom if this picture:

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i

Reply to
Ignoramus23449

I, It looks to me that you are going a touch overboard on the cushioned cart. I don't understand why you are going to such extremes to reduce vibration. BTW, how do you plan to turn the cart? Its going to be tough to maneuver. Good luck with the solenoid! Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

Dave, you could, very well, be right. I may be going overboard. My reasoning is that the price of these used tires is unbeatable (they are free), the cushioning ability of this setup is unbeatable (tires are made to flex for tens of thousands of miles), the sound dampening ability is also good (as far as sound transmitted via vibration), and the whole thing is likely to end up being very stable. Also, I reasoned that vibration is the enemy of wood, screws, plywood etc, and dampening it as much as I can would help with peace of mind.

Also, I was afraid that without this cushioning, the 5/6" axles could bend during transportation or engine operation.

If I , say, use this genset in emergency and go to bed at night, I would feel good if I was sure that this setup won't fall apart while I am in bed, at 3 am, due to plywood/screw/etc failure.

So, worst case, if you are right, I would have wasted a few hours of my time. No big deal, I waste time all the time.

Good question. Basically, I am strong enough to lift one end of it a little bit. I will attach something that would let me do it without excessive bending, or some boards for extra levering. I am not concerned.

Thanks, I definitely need it. I appreciate all help and advice that I get here on rec.woodworking and other groups.

i

Reply to
Ignoramus23449

Let me know how that works for you, and the exact McMaster/Karr stock number, as I want to convert my MDJA and DJA over to Injector Rack Shutdown from Compression Release Shutdown.

Bruce in alaska

Reply to
Bruce in Alaska

See my another post with deteiled description of the mcmaster solenoid

69905K8. i
Reply to
Ignoramus23449

Well, there are rubber mounts between the generator and that platform.

You may well know better than me.

Hm, that's something to think about. Thanks.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus23449

Had mine sitting on a tire and its been drenched in fuel several times, spills when cleaning the injector, spills when filling on cold days and hands are frozen, etc. Its a scary sight, but I dont know where the fire hazard would come from. Ive accidentally hit the tire with the torch many times while warming things up, diesel isnt that easy to ignite.

Reply to
Forger

Good point. Plus, my tires are under a solid platform (solid 2x4 ft piece of plywood underneath.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus23449

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