Band saw blade keeps coming off

Piss on ya', Tom!

Harold

Fit a new stator to up the rpm to attain optimum grinding speed. A new lick of paint, cord and plug. As a last resort, remove the label lest it impede grinding..

Tom

On the same note as this bandsaw, I'm having a problem with my Arter grinder. The wheel is worn down to the label and it just isn't cutting right anymore...What should I do?

Now there's the difference between us; I'd never do such a thing ;o)

Yeah, a no-brainer for $5 or so.

Ned Simmons

Have you tried hitting it with one of your wire brushes?

Harold

Yep! I agree. What Tom said!

Harold

Thanks for the replies, didn't mean to start another war :) I'll get a couple of blades welded up, and see what happens. How many TPI should I get, one for cutting ali plate / blocks, the other for (say) 1/8 inch mild steel plate? Thanks for all the answers and the laughs ;)

Oh great! Now your going to start ANOTHER religious war!

Seriously, the last time I bought blades for my vertical I told my supplier to ship six of each style he had. The bill was maybe $200 but that was >

I'm sure my metal-cutting saw has tires, because I checked last night.

Saws that accommodate various blade sizes tend to have rubber tires, so the blade can be run without damage to wheel or blade. In that case, the top wheel is generally adjustable so the blade will track where desired. Saws that run only a dedicated blade size normally do not. In that case, the size of the wheel where the blade runs is such that the teeth run with clearance (the edge of the wheel), back of the blade against the shoulder of the wheel. The shoulder is lacking on rubber tired wheels, so the blade is free to seek proper location, determined by the blade support at the point of the cut. Canting the adjustable top wheel makes the necessary adjustment.. Yes, I'm aware that there are likely some variations on what I've said.

Harold

What Tom said, but keep in mind that speed plays a big role in how a blade performs. For example, you can saw thin aluminum very successfully with a

4 pitch blade, assuming you're running the blade quite fast. If you run within recommended surface speeds, the blade you select should always have three or more teeth in contact with the material at one time, otherwise it's possible for the material to overfeed, shearing teeth from the blade. That happens easily when sawing materials like sheet stainless steel, but common sheet steel will do it as well.

The other thing to keep in mind is the size of the material being sawed, or the length of the cut. When you use a blade that has way too many teeth in contact, the blade loads to the point where the gullet can no longer accommodate any more chip, then it floats the blade. Not only does your cut slow way down, but you wear the blade prematurely, because it's not cutting, but dragging instead. With a carbon steel blade, you risk warming the blade to the point of annealing it under that condition. In the case of a long cut, use a coarse blade, even one as coarse as 4 TPI, even in steel.

If you're sawing shapes (angle, channel, pipe or tubing), the thin sections will dictate the pitch of the blade. If you expect good performance from your saw, have various blade types at your disposal, and change the blade when the cut isn't within reasonable parameters. You'll be much happier with how your saw performs.

Harold

Great info, everyone. I am learning a great deal from this news group. Many thanks for such detailed replies.

It's a 2 wheel, bench mounted, single phase, about 3 feet in height. I have only ever used it on metal, I don't do much / any woodwork.

Thanks, some good info. I hadn't realized the powered wheel would slide on the shft, by design. It's in line though, and both are perpendicular to one another.