Compressor to be installed

Quincy model 350, 1982 vintage.

Okay... I have to ask... What's with the stainless steel exhaust flex pipe and natural gas-type couplings going to the reservoir tank?

"Joe AutoDrill" fired this volley in news:cCphq.1012$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe04.iad:

That's not exhaust pipe, it's high pressure flex hose, wire-reinforced.

One wants not to "hard couple" something that vibrates to hard piping.

That's the proper way to do it.

LLoyd

Understood. I guess even with my pneumatic drills, we don't use enough air to justify such a large hose. We use up to 1/2" ID plastic tube for that purpose with simple quick disconnects.

Huh???

Ignoramus4271 fired this volley in news:bNKdnQnay71fqRvTnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Read my response to that Ig.

LLoyd

I have a pretty big Pneumatech 3/4 HP air drier, I think rated at 175 CFM. Single phase, not that it matters any more. It is waiting for its turn in my backyard. It cost me $50.

I found out the hard way you can't use a Cleco brass quick connect directly on a 90 gun. Has to have a steel fitting with a direct coupled hose for the first few feet, then the cleco. I was chipping acid brick out of a 3' dia. carbon tet tower laying on its side. No place to be when the air hose lets go. For that matter, no place to be anyway. The things we used to do to re-use equipment in R&D.

Pete Keillor

I do not plan on painting, personally. Dry air is good for sand blasting, also.

The above compressor is a 10 HP compressor, about 30 CFM.

If you are going to be spray painting things you refurbish you want dry air going to your spray gun.

Best Regards Tom.

That is an understatement. You want dry air for anything in the shop. Air tools don't like water any more than paint guns. I like to make sure I have different colored hose whips as well. I use blue for dry air and red for air that passes through an oiler. The blue lines are usually stored in a cabinet with the spray gear. That way they don't collect crud that could cause problems while spraying.

By the way, this place is completely plumbed for compressed air. It also has an awesome electrical distribution, 230/3phase available everywhere, same for 125v, etc.

First, I need to set up a magnetic starter for this compressor.

And it looks like there's the hardware on the front of the compressor for changing it over to Continuous Run Unloader mode - which you want to do whenever you plan on sandblasting, paint spraying, or anything that uses mass quantities of air. You have to electrically bypass the tank pressure switch with a toggle switch, and flip a lever valve on the unloader to make it actuate.

The unloader pops open the valves on the compressor head when the tank hits the shutoff pressure, and the electric motor keeps spinning the compressor at idle and everything gets a chance to cool down. Doesn't use nearly as much power when spinning unloaded, and you don't get all the motor starting surges driving your Demand Meter (on a commercial service) way up - that Demand Meter drives you cost per KWH up for the month.

Read The Friendly Manual, Quincy should explain it. Switch it back to Pressure Switch running for normal shop stuff where you aren't using much air.

It's VERY Hard on the motor when the compressor is only a bit bigger than the job (and 10-HP qualifies!) and you short-cycle it on Start-Stop mode - start and run for 2 minutes and catch up, then stop for two minutes, then start for two minutes, stop for two minutes...

A few hours of that and the "Magic Smoke" escapes from the motor.

Sometimes it's better when you only have a "5 Sears HP" compressor to let it stay in "catch-up mode" as you sandblast - watch the pressure gauges to stop blasting when the pressure drops and let it catch up, then it runs continuously.

If you goof up and let it stop, go take a break - give the motor 10 minutes to cool off. If you've been going at it for an hour, you probably need it too.

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Yes, I rather liked that also.

I modified my home compressor for this, also.

Ditto on my 390 in the garage I use to power my 80# pneumatic hammer.