Crank opperated hydraulic - redux

We assembled version 3 of the mechanical shear today and guess what...We don't NEED no stinking hydraulics! Version one, see the link below, used a cam to operate a lever shear with the 3 flat wires passing through holes in carbide inserts and the inserts would be moved against each other. Version

2 replaced the cam with a cam follower in eccentric. Version 3 doubled the ratio from the follower to the fulcrum and uses square carbides in a standard shearing action. Much to our surprise, we can turn the sprocket by hand without even a rag, and cut the wire! Maybe 10 foot-pounds? Well, that changes everything! Version 1 would cut the wire with a 14" pipe wrench for leverage, we had to brace the apron on the machine worrying about the casting flexing. Now I'm thinking we could use an air cylinder on version 4.

Thanks for the great discussion and brain candy! Another thing that happened is that version 3 is really version twenty something. We used Solidworks exclusively to design and dismiss a lot of ideas. Prime considerations were decreasing down-time to change carbides, use standard $6 carbides rather that $16 custom made inserts that can be flipped once, the squares have 8 cutting edges each. The other consideration was cut quality, imagine the cut from inside a hole. The squares leave a perfect milled looking edge with no burr. Another 20-30 years and I have it perfected!

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Reply to
Tom Gardner
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You are one smart cookie, Tom.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Cool! Rather than fix problem, eliminate it. That's engineering! Some of it can be done at a 'puter , but some must be done by skilled hands operated by thoughtful minds in the lab or shop, with a bit of eau chitte along the way.

Solidworks, eh? Lucky bugger! I once played with it in a free training seminar and was very impressed, but it's way beyond my pensioner's toy budget.

I think you should paint the sprocket purple, Tom.

Reply to
Don Foreman

It's always worth reading Tom's Tales. He has to have tremendous fun building his brush factory -- on the fly, as it operates. :)

Reply to
John Husvar

In your honor!

Skilled hands....HAH! Sometimes we look like a bunch of monkeys trying to screw a football!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Isn't Solidworks cool? Especially once you start building assemblies and use constraints properly it's really easy to see how things will(or won't) work.

JW

Reply to
jw

Especially with collision-detection on.

Nick

Reply to
Nick Müller

If it wasn't fun, i'd slit my wrists! (We do get to make ANYTHING we want, as long as we convince someody to buy it)

Reply to
Tom Gardner

I'm not good with constraints yet, but it'll come.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Tom,

Did you guys do the shear calculations for your mechanism? It would be interesting to know what the minimum force is as calculated, and what it actually is, especially since it sounds like you're using very little cutting clearnace. Do you have numbers available, such as the material and its condition, the travel of the follower, etc? This would be a good guide for others looking to perform the same operation.

Regards,

Robin

Reply to
Robin S.

Speaking of convincing somebody to buy: Do you sell single items?

I looked through your web site and would like to get prices on a couple of items but only one of each.

I could use: A 61K, 1/2" arbor carbon steel, a 387 carbon steel, a 290 carbon steel.

I've about worn out my last purchase of Chinese Cheapies from the local big box. (And they're for crap for cleaning hot blacksmith pieces anyway.)

Email me off list if you like. My address is good.

Thanks.

Reply to
John Husvar

Sure we sell one-offs, I'll price them for you when I get to work...right after "Family Fued" Looks like about $13 +shipping. What size wire on the knot brush? I'd recomend .014" for general use.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Crikey, I can't buy _one_ wire wheel for that anywhere else! Jeez, Louise, you making any money at that?!?

Well, I'll go with your recommendation. You're the expert for sure.

I'll be using it for descaling and rust removal. So whatever you recommend will be fine. Or maybe lets just say one at .014 and one of the next heavier? The arbor in question has two sides. :)

It's for cleaning both carbon and stainless steel small decorative/jewelry type items. The SS I wire wheel then buff on a loose muslin. The carbon I usually just wire wheel.

Would you happen to know a source of small stainless square stock, say,

1/8 to 1/4 in small quantities, more or less stainless keystock?
Reply to
John Husvar

Not really, we've been cutting this wire for over 60 years with many generations of equipment. Pure feel!(educated guess?)

We still are arguing about clearances, so far .002" is working well. We need to see how the carbides hold up over time and then change things.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

IIRC at one time you were offering an RCM special assortment, HSM oriented. Do I remember right and if so, is it still available?

Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

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