Gunnerland(tm) Bandsaw Update

Hey, Gunner. I finally got around to peeking inside that Wilton 4x6 transmichigan. It lost a roll pin on the brass gear. I cleaned it up a bit and put a new pin in, and it cut all my 2x2x1/4" angle for the legs on the horizontal mill stand I'm building. 15 hard minutes with a hacksaw or 20 seconds with a bimetal 10-14 blade on the bandsaw. What a difference! It's quiet and not very messy, either. Now to refurb her and put the new gear in.

What does a bronze worm gear cost for one of these pups? Not the worm but the driven gear for the lower wheel. Got an extry hanging around perchance? Cuanto quiere?

I'll post pics in the dropbox under Wilton4x6xxxx.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques
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Its working..but you still need a gear?

Ill look at the pictures and see what I can scounge up.

Want what you paid for it, back?

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

Reply to
Gunner

On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 09:09:47 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth:

The teeth are PAPER THIN and knife-edged. It damnear cut me taking it off the shaft.

Nah, I'd rather get a gear at the same great price. ;)

What grease goes in there? For now, I gooped it with some white lithium grease which I had handy.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

When I took my xmission cover off, the oil was *gold* from the bronze wearing off over time. It originally comes w/ oil, gear oil I would imagine. I put a gear oil in there, w/ some Kroil, Marvel Mystery, spit, whatever. I filled it up much more than the original, for good immersion. If you *really packed it* w/ white lithium, I dunno, should be oK. I would put in some gear oil anyway. I've noticed, that until the greases gets hot, the gears may turn in a kind of cavity, and not get really wet. I'd prefer to pack in Li grease or sumpn myself, but always wondered about the intimate contact/immersion of everything.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

The instructions on my HF 4x6 called for 90 weight hypoid oil, used rear-end lube from Autozone when I cleaned out the gear box(not a whole lot in there to clean out).

My dad's 4x6 did the same self-destruct thing on the worm, we managed to get a new gear set out of the dealer for free. Worm and wheel should BOTH be replaced or it'll do the same thing again. Changed from a bronze worm and steel wheel to the reverse. Seemed to work, the originals destructed in only a few cuts, the replacements are still going 20 years later. Sticking a magnetron magnet on the gearbox cover will grab the steel particles, does nothing for the bronze, though, also gives you a place to stick wrenches for the adjustments.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

ach!

Its supposed to be gear oil.

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

Reply to
Gunner

Interesting. The gears in mine still look great, but I had started running it before I had encountered the "drain and clean out the gearbox of casting sand" advice, so earlier this year it got to the point where I couldn't get it track worth beans anymore, and found the bearings were toast. Found bearings on ebay, but had to dig for a while to find the bearing seal, which I eventually found at MSC. Replaced all the blade guide bearings while I was at it, the ones on the lower side where all the chips end up were also toast, the uppers weren't much better. Blade tracks well and the saw cuts square once again.

As for the gear, I regularly see them mounted on a shaft listed in ebay stores for a not unreasonable amount. --Glenn Lyford

Reply to
glyford

Egad, not the dreaded Skunky Hypoid Elixir of Death!?! I thought I was done with that crap when I left the automotive field in '86. Come to think of it, the crud in the gearbox case did reek of that...

Great! Danke Mucho for the tips.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

What's a magnetron magnet, and where do I get one? Excellent idea. Might, however, be more effective put the magnet on the *inside* of the transmission.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Most of mine came from the local electronics surplus store for cheap, now no longer in business. Every dead microwave oven has two donuts, be careful with the HV caps on disassembly. Also used with a newspaper bag for picking up chips, maggie in the baggie, turn inside out when there's enough chips collected, peel off and dispose.

There's not a lot of room in that cavity for one thing, for another, it's hard wiping shavings off a magnet directly(see maggie in the baggie above). A magnetron magnet has intense enough flux to penetrate the cover, anyway. Works with rear end covers, too, assuming they're steel.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

Excellent tips. Elegant idea! Actually remember sumpn from long ago, bout magnets in an engine sump-- Ooooh, OOooohh, OOOOHHHHH---

I GOT IT, I GOT IT!!!!!!! JC Whitney sold, at one time, magnetic drain plugs fer cars!!! Great idear, never thought to extrapohlate it to other scenarios. Magnet in a car transmission couldn't hurt either, I would imagine.

Now, iffin I could only remember d'wife's birthday....

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Yep such a good idea that just about every auto now has a magnetic drain plug and a magnet in the transmission pan as well.

On the B'Day, it was the day BEFORE she smacked you up beside the head and asked you how you liked sleeping on the couch......

Reply to
Steve W.

She must have a birthday about once a month, then.

I betcha the drain plugs on my mazda 929 and Nissan frontier don't got a magnet--no magnetic tip like on one I saw a long time ago. Unless the whole goddamm thing is magnetized..... Hope so... :)

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

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