OT: For you boater types

Hey JR,

Neat work on an ugly job! Not a lot of fun crawling in the bilges, is it.

A few comments. First, what is the "drain plug" for......trapped water?? Is there not a check-valve style available that will allow water to drain out, but close if water is trying to flow into the bilges?

Would it be a good idea to make a decent radius on all the corners of the new access hole, especially those on the bulkhead/hull side, and then really glass them in well?

Is there anything in the boat design that may have made the area a floatation compartment, and so would need a water tight door/cover to renew the hull integrity?

What exactly is the purpose of having the float switches mounted at least an inch above the lowest point?

As you are doing all this for future safety, what about separating/isolating the two pumps electrically? Rule pumps are OK, but even they can seize/short and pop a fuse/breaker.

And with the ability to pump so much water now, you could develop a problem that they can handle easily, in fact so easily you may not be aware of it. I'd put a piezo buzzer in parallel with the "Warning Lamp" shown, or a timer of some sort.

Take care. Have fun. If the ra>Just completed the 4000 GPH Bilge Pump upgrade in my MaXum.

I just hope you never have to run it at full capacity.

There is a method of putting an impeller on the prop shaft so if the boat develops a MAJOR leak the engine itself will pump out major amounts of water. Normally the impeller on the prop shaft runs dry.

You guys want something to kill time with boating and "metal" content, check this out:

Joel. phx