Why drop the driveshaft? Put the rear axle of the car on the tow dolly, secure the steering wheel well in the centered position, pop the magnetic taillight set on the hood (turn the car's tail/marker lights on at night to get side markers), and bring it on home.
Stop every so often to check the front wheel bearings on the Chevy for overheating (imminent seizure), or better yet repack them before you start. And make sure the front tires aren't too bad, or buy two fresh tires for it. Those are the main failure points.
Oh, and at least have temporary tags for it - if any wheels are on the ground, it has to be registered in most states, even if only in tow.
Contact a new or used car dealer in your area. Ask them for the name of a car hauler that they use. These guys just don't charge that much to haul one. You may be able to get someone to move the car at the SF end. The big haulers usually won't go down residential streets and may require getting the car to a suitable loading place.
On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 02:11:15 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:
Because I've heard of too many ropes coming undone (I've seen that personally) and steering locks break, especially on a long drive like that one, Bruce. 4 nuts and 15 minutes of your time is no big waste for added safety and security.
Just another good reason to trail the rear. Plus he can check the wear on the u-joints while he's doing the removal and tie-up. ;)
Ah, good catch.
Also, HF has the magn trailer light setup on sale this week. $25 will get them added safety and diminished police scrutiny on the trip home.
You don't depend on the steering lock, you leave the ignition unlocked just so it can't be loaded that hard. And besides, isn't that car too old to have a locking steering wheel setup? That was an
80's invention.
If a moron secures the wheel, sure it can come loose. I see tow truck drivers lasso the steering wheel with a chunk of 3/8" nylon rope, close the rope in the car's doorjamb and tie a big knot on the outside - which might work for a mile or two, but put any long-term stress on it and that's a recipe for disaster.
Take two ratchet straps on opposite sides of the steering wheel to the door posts, and a third to something solid under the dash like the brake pedal arm or seat posts - Overkill is a proper solution.
Hell no! Logic error there, let me explain.
Front wheels have two grease packed roller bearings and one grease seal each, period. (and a cotter pin or a castle cap.) They come apart easily, and spare parts are available damned near everywhere. You can repack them in an hour or two before you leave.
On the other hand... Rear axles have outer and inner roller bearings you can't get at to check easily, and all the rotating and moving crap in the differential and pinion gear. To get to the wheel bearings you have to disassemble the brakes, then pull the pumpkin cover and release the axle shafts - be it pulling the big Circlip holding the shaft in, or taking the carrier half apart.
And all those inaccessible bearings are splash lubricated from the ring gear, and the outer wheel bearings only get oil when you make a turn while driving and the oil surges out the housing arm - and you just said the car has been sitting for very long periods for most of it's life. Those bearings haven't been oiled regularly and are known to have been sitting dry for years at a time, ergo they are suspect.
I would NOT tow long distance with that rear axle on the ground unless it's been totally gone through, dropping the driveshaft is irrelevant if the pinion shaft bearings seize up, or something in the pumpkin... And going through a rear axle for a health check under 'field conditions' would take all day, or longer.
You could borrow a set of wrecker-style dolly wheels, but IMHO they're way too flimsy for long periods at highway speeds. And when they fall off, they're going to tear the hell out of the car on their way out the back.
Egg-zackly. Go get a set before they go off sale. And a layer of plastic food wrap between the magnet and car is easier on the paint.
I'd prefer seeing SJTO jacketed cord instead of the flat cable, but the flat is fine for occasional use. And lasso them to something solid on the car like the mirrors, so if the light magnets do pop off they aren't bouncing on the road till you notice.
Some special paint that Dow donated. I have seen lots of "pearl" paintjobs in my life. The iridescence moves and varies as you move around a little. This stuff moves and flows like an LSD flashback even when you are standing still. Cloud movement, or the movement of people around the car or anything that shadows the car causes the paint to reflect differently. The stuff seems to be moving.
Would I pay that much for some paint? No. But this was a special project, and I'm sure for Dow it was an advertising writeoff.
What works really good is a used fan belt in decent condition. Loop it around the wheel, slam it in the door jam and it will be good for a cross country. If that makes you nervous then use the seat belt.
I agree with you however that the steering columm locks are not to be trusted.
On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 18:13:30 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:
Yeah, I hadn't recalled the age of the vehicle when I wrote that.
True, the older drum-braked vehicles were much quicker to repack, but this is a non-mechanical driver who was going to get the car.
Nah. The movement of the axles assures lubrication with no mechanical inspection or axle pulling needed.
You're reading much to much into it. The residual lube in the trench of the axle bearing would be enough to lube it until they went around a couple corners.
Using those for a long tow, you'd have to tie 'em onto the vehicle. A couple of HF ratchet straps (1" fine) over the diff would do it. The bearings on those are like trailer bearings--often neglected. Those would surely need repacking first.
Ayup. I had newspaper handy the couple times I needed to light a dragged car.
Yeah, I hate flat cable, too. Retrofitting with real cable would be easy, though.
Closing the cords in the doorframe, then putting the lights on the roof would elminate the bounced light scenario.
Well, that settles it. The guys should have it trucked in. Period. ;)
------------------------------------------- Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician! ===========================================
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