Phase II and BXA

today to dump

Good move!

You can, and should.

I presume that you got the set, so you have five holders (of which one is probably going to sit there unused -- the knurling one. I used a scissors style knurler until I lucked into a genuine Aloris BXA knurling holder which has the two rolls on arms mounted on dovetails with a leadscrew driven by a knurled knob which is left-hand thread on one end and right-hand thread on the other, so turning it in one direction moves the arms together, and the other direction moves them apart -- while maintaining the height adjustment for all sizes of workpiece.

The one thing you probably should do is to get a box of good American made metric set screws (8mm IIRC) to replace those which hold the tools. The ones in the holders are likely to split when you torque down on a tool, making it very difficult to remove the tool in the future. (Of course, they may have improved the metallurgy since I got my set.) I actually took the time to re-tap the holes to an inch thread which is quite close to the metric thread -- and which means that I can use the same Allen key in both the Phase-II and the Aloris holders. But that gun tap which I used is probably not good for anything more now. That is some tough metal in those holders. :-)

O.K. I normally leave the compound at 29.5 degrees -- and only shift it if doing left-hand threads. Except that I had to shift it the other night, with the lathe covered with newspaper, prior to using a toolpost grinder (the first time I have actually *used* one which I have had for a couple of years now. But there was a task which really required that, so it was time. :-)

the new post.

Even the Phase-II holders are tough. I hope your mill is rigid enough to handle the carbide in that job.

But I think that you would be losing significant rigidity in the old holders. Maybe just look for another threading holder in the right size on eBay -- and maybe the threading bit will move between the sizes.

But for threading, I tend to use laydown carbide inserts in one of the BXA holders which extends out closer to the workpiece for better rigidity. I did some 3/8-32 threading in D2 steel the other day, and it worked nicely. That D2 steel is *expensive* compared to A1 or the various water and oil quenching steels. $47.?? for a 36" rod of 3/8" diameter.

CDCO holders

tool holder.

:-)

A good start.

Enjoy, DoN.

I have an AXA on my Sheldon L-44. Chrome ways (na-na! :-) ) I have made several work holders for it from iron. I suspect a nice block of leaded steel would be a delight to machine. Why not make a holder for the threading tool or holder to hold the AxA tools themselves. Like the threading tool, a boring bar might be smaller and needed - and so forth.

Mart> I couldn't find the thread where we discussed Phase II and BXA but I decided

today to dump

the new post.

CDCO holders

tool holder.

You will be very happy with the choice. I have a boatload of quick change holders and it works out really great. Just yesterday I needed a pipe bored out, was done in 10 minutes.

I've had only 1 problem withp Phase 2 tool posts. The mounting screw had to be cleaned and re-loctited to hold it in place. This happened with 2 sets of Phase 2. It also happened with a home-made quick change mount from a friend.

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe. The only regret is my Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post. I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.

My metal working content for today.

Wes

today to dump

what QC is all

I found them, I almost offered these to the group available to pick up at Names. Two BXA #2 made by Aloris and a MT2 drill holder. Not sure who made that. That could be helpful if I need to drill out another barrel for a liner.

I looked that up. I think it was a #19 I like that.

324.45 ouch! Maybe after I pay off the house.

I replaced the screws in my AXA holders. What is it about China that they cheap out on set screws?

I normally leave mine at 29.5 also except when I need to turn accurate shoulders. I don't have a micrometer stop and using my drawbar and 4.5MT to 5c adaptor leaves no room to fit one. I'm going to have to get a L00 collet chuck one of these days or get inventive.

the new post.

Well, it is a bridgeport. The other thought would be to use uncles surface grinder, a sine bar and dressing a wheel.

Ouch! I haven't used any laydown inserts. I have used brazed carbide on materials that were too hard for HSS before. One night I had to make a NF fastener using a longer FHSC that had a unthreaded shoulder that was perfect for use to thread.

D2 three times the price of A2 and 6 times the price of O1.

CDCO holders

tool holder.

I see I have stock, I'll try making a new threading holder in BXA dimensions and screw the threading bit to it. I assume I can case harden A36. I gotta get something smaller than my pottery kiln.

Wes

Names. Two BXA

be helpful

O.K. #2 is the one like the #1 but with a shallow V groove in the bottom of the holder slot -- making it good for holding round shanked tools such as boring bars -- but still good for standard square-shanked tools as well. Probably the most generally useful of them all.

Intersting. Mine has a knurled knob with a tommy-bar hole instead of the balanced crank.

And I think that the male dovetail is on the body in mine. So they have changed the design a bit. :-)

Well -- remember, I said "lucked into" (on eBay). I'm sure that it was under $100.00. It looked weird enough so most people weren't bidding on it. :-)

I really don't know.

shoulders. I don't

room to fit

Hmmm .... how is your collet closer getting in the way of a micrometer stop -- which normally clamps onto the outer V way -- often under the shoulder of the headstock. (Of course, I don't know what lathe you have -- though with the 4.5 MT and L-00 it sounds like my Clausing.

But I've seen illustrations of Clausing lever style collet closers which bolt to the front of the headstock instead of working through the spindle. Mine works through the spindle and came with the lathe, along with a bed turret (and no normal tailstock).

the new post.

I would feel a bit better using my Nichols horizontal mill for that. Less of a flex path than any vertical mill has.

O.K. An awkward reach -- though a small enough cup wheel might work. But a *lot* of passes to remove that much material. :-)

I like the laydown inserts. It allows me to have a general purpose sharp one for multiple threads, a specific size Acme threading insert (with angled anvils to adjust for different thread pitch angles, including left-hand threads), and (should I ever start making enough of a specific thread, a full profile insert which properly rounds the bottom and the crest of the threads.

the CDCO holders

threading tool holder.

and screw the

smaller than

Hmm ... A36 is a high carbon steel anyway, isn't it?

O.K. Sort of medium I guess.

12L14 is 0.14% carbon 4140 is 0.40% carbon

And A36 is 0.26% carbon

so it should be somewhat hardenable anyway -- but the carbon is low enough so it would take up carbon from something like Kasenit or bone meal or whatever.

My oven is just barely big enough to hold a BXA series holder block, perhaps with a can around it to hold the Kasenit for the case hardening. The real trick is getting it out and out of the can quickly enough to quench properly. A little crowded for getting tongs in to grip it. Perhaps get some stainless steel flat, bend up one end with a hole through it to act as a sled which can be hooked and pulled onto the apron of the oven.

Good Luck, DoN.