Question about using a slip roll?

Did you check the EAA to see if they had any good info on using a slip roll?

John

Try running some non-corrugated cardboard throug it. Graduate to cheap galvanize.

It's not like you can read a book about it and fab up parts with complex compound curves on your first try. Slip rolls take quite a bit of experience and 'hand' to achieve predictable results. You can partially get by this requirement by *very slowly* decreasing the radius adjustment at each end of the roll while you roll the work. Note that repeatedly rolling the work back and forth throuth the rolls will change the rate and shape of the curves as opposed to a single pass. Better to practice the "feel" of slip rolling on cheap sheet metal, like the

Compound curves ?

Can you do these usefully with a slip roll? Wouldn't you need a wheel instead?

My standard recomendation- Sheet Metal Shop Practice, by Leo Meyer, ATP books. Check ABEbooks.com, there is usually a copy used. Covers all basic hand operated sheet metal tools, layout, and much more.

No compound curves if I can help it. The pieces I want to make are the upper/lower cowling, cockpit and belly skins. The 2024-T3 has a temper so what I am looking to do is coax the sheets in the right direction with the slip roll then fasten the skins in place with screws. One sheet is .032" T3 and it's pretty springy. That's why using galvanized is a good start but it doesn't have the same physical property as T3. The spacing of the rolls using galvanized will not put the same amount of curl in the T3. I was wondering if someone did a reference table for different alloys and metal thicknesses with a measurement to set the roller distance for a particular radius of curl. I will just have to start with a bit of curl then work my way up to the final curl needed to make a satisfactory fit. Thanks all. I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Compound curves ?

Can you do these usefully with a slip roll? Wouldn't you need a wheel instead?