rebuild forklift

A Hyster 4000# gasoline pneumatic tire forktruck followed me home from the auction today...
Its not in as good a shape as I'd like. It has very low hours, 1900, and
most of the wear looks to be just from sitting around for 30 years (outside a lot I think). I need a reliable unit for just a few hours a year. Maybe load and unload six semis a year.
I've got a good handle on what the gas engine needs; replace/rebuild the entire electrical system. Plus fluids, belts, hoses, filters, etc. At least the engine doesn't smoke and seems to have good compression - no overhaul. "The Kid" says he'll take the lift to work for sandblasting and professional repaint.
So far, I don't see any oil leaks. The hydraulics appear OK and the clutch and tranny are sound for driving around the farm.
My questions, Anyone have a good source for a Hyster forklift manual for model H40F? And, what items in the forklift should be inspected/rebuilt once every 30 years? I'd like to go through it real well. I learned the hard way last year about how forgiving semi drivers and grocery chains are when you can't load and deliver because of a breakdown.
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<()> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
Two apples a day gets the doctor's OK.
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Is that an old stick shift?
Wes S
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I guess that's what you call it. Hi/Lo lever, and forward/reverse lever with standard clutch.
Karl
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Parts & Diagrams
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=hyster+H40F
Bob AZ
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Thanks, you can find anything on Ebay, should have thought of that.
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I have a similar situation with my recently aquired Clark 2000# Yardlift. Yours sounds like it is in much better shape than mine. Mine is 50 years old and has had very heavy use and much neglect.
Here is my experience an you my take some "lessons learned", for what it's worth!
Mine hadn't been run in 10 years and once I put air in a couple tires I was able to winch it onto my trailer. Once home, I was able to get it to start (on the old gas) and the little flat head Contental engine now starts and runs great. I was able to drive it off the trailer but found that the steering was pretty much frozen and the automatic tranny was slipping a lot. The hydraulics only just work. Mostly the problem is in the control valve and a relief that sticks open. A change of fluid might help this.
After doing some research on news group misc.transport.trucking, I concluded that my Clark must have ATF fluid in the tranny and the fluid of choice in the '50 would have been 30 weight non-detergent oil or "Farm Oil". I drained the ATF and refilled with 30 weight and the shifting improved some but is still very weak on power once it is warmed up, in both directions. I think I must find a way to drain/replace the residual fluid in the torque converter but haven't located an access to that drain plug. (in my limited knowledge of automatic trannys, the torque converter fluid doesn't circulate, once it is pumped full. Am I wrong?)
My Clark has pnuematic tires and I was fortunate that I got a supply of 6 extra tires. 4 are band new. I'll never use all of them and will offer to sell all but 2. I think they are 7.50X10 and 2 are 6.50x10. ( will have to verify this, if interested )
My brakes were "zero", but came back to life once I topped off the fluid. The radiator was full of antifreeze and it runs cool.
The steering system is my biggest problem. It is non power and the steering box was broken, beyond repair from being forced. It had been welded several times. I got a replacement from a different model and have adapted it but the linkage really needs to be worked on. So much play that the wheels tend to go in seperate directions which the steering box has too much reverse force on it. I often have to stop and get off and pry the wheels around to the desired direction. I suspect some of the linkage is bent along with very tight bushings. Grease fitting won't take grease.
I purchased a sepecial battery for the long, skinny box on the side but the gen. doesn't charge. (not a big deal since it is parked by the shop battery charger.)
Too bad your fork lift is a different MFG since I also got two barrels full of new spare part. All Clark but for larger models. Only a few that fit the #2000. I also have 4 parts manuals, but, again for the larger models. I have checked with the dealer and the service manuals cost over a $100.
I know, most of this doesn't relate to your situation, but gives me a chance to put all of my problems in prospective. I only paid $400 for the fork lift and an additional $150 for the tires and spare parts. If I can get these problems resolve to "just operational" I will be happy since I only have a small need for the fork lift around my shop.
Steve
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Not much forklift specific, but based on the 37 year old hydraulic system (backhoe) I do own....
Changing the hydraulic fluid (and filter, if any) at a bare minimum would be good. If a very careful inspection after some serious exercising (pick up and set down a box of rocks or something for several hours - get it good and hot) does not show any leaks, you might choose to leave it at that.
Drive around with the box of rocks on the forks while doing this - simulate real use, look for any other problem areas (especially check for massive bearing wear in things like steering parts that are inconvenient to grease that were supposed to be greased, once you have a manual on hand, or simply by inspection). You can press in and bore out bushings to restore the fit if you have that problem. Check out the brakes when you don't have someone else's trailer in close proximity if the thing fails to stop.
If you find any zerks that won't take grease, assume that you need to get the bearing area apart, and expect to find damage when you do.
Otherwise (reliability) assume that any hydraulic hoses are just waiting to break until an inconvenient time, and replace them all. Cylinder seals might also be a good idea, but are usually too damn much work to bother with until they at least start leaking, and you hope that they will give you a while of leaking and working before they blow out; they usually do. Hoses just blow and drop the load on whatever is under them...
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