Have a few questions here
1) What is the best way to remove spot welds on a car fender? So that I can remove the fender and affix a new skin? Canadian Sources?2) Once the spot welds are remove can I get a "spot welder" to put them back on? Is this a stand alone machine or something that would attach to me Miller 175 Mig?
I use a spot weld hole saw made for this purpose. Most auto parts stores have or can order this tool. Use this hole saw to cut thru the upper layer of steel around spot weld and grind the spot weld off when you get the two panels seperated. I use my MIG welder to do the spot welds. Mark your new panel and drill 5/16" holes to weld thru to the old panel. Use weldable primer before assembly. Steve
There are special drill bits for spot welds and Eastwood sells them in their catalogue. For reattachment you can rosette weld the panel back on with your existing equipment. lg no neat sig line
Seems to be getting the same answer I'm getting from everyone, "FORGET SPOT WELDING"
IS a rosette weld stronger than a spot weld? How far apart should I make them? Or just the same distance as the original?
Like the other posters said. In case it isn't obvious, you can make a "spot weld" with MIG if you have a hole in the top panel and metal from the other panel behind it. Just fill the hole with weld metal. After a little practice you don't even need to bother with a mask. Just point the gun at the hole, shut your eyes and pull the trigger for the length of time you've found to work well with your equipment.
The weld will be a bit proud of the surface, so it's easy to grind it flush. With spotwelds an inch apart, you can stick a whole fender on in about 10 minutes, once you get it in place with klecos or sheetmetal screws.
Another very useful tool is a pneumatic punch 'n flange. They're about $50. One side of the tool makes a dropped flange about 1/2" wide. When you place the panel, the flange goes behind the part that's already on the car, which has holes in it. The surfaces are then coplanar. Do the spotwelds. You can then fill in the crack with bondo. A gob about the size of a walnut will do a whole fender seam.
Not exactly competition-class "restoration", but it works, it's quick, doesn't take much skill, looks perfect after painting, and I've had repairs like that last a decade.
When possible, it's a good idea to smear some 3M body sealer on the back side to seal the overlap.
This car is a 1995 PORSCHE 993, not a cheap car. BUT I want to do the work myself, otherwise I have a big shop and hoist for nothing. I think I may invest in a Spot welder.
Another question, can I use a spot welder on aluminum and stainless?
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.