Yeah, I've had some pipe like that, both water pipe and gas pipe. The water pipe is taken care of now -- I'm all-plastic except for some ancient cast iron waste pipe -- but I had some that tore the heck out of tape. On those, I used one of the pasty goos.
3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so s***ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric
With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.
I've seen tape used on compression nuts! ;>)}
And I've fixed leaky ones by removing the tape - - -
As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly. Especially the disassembly. Eric
They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing. Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know - but it generally DOES make it necessary.
Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff.
Mart> I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass.
If a fitting is a dryseal (NPTF) then I would use no sealant. But most fittings are not NPTF. At least most of the ones I see and buy. YMMV. Eric
Bigger problem is cutting tempered glass.
And why would you pay $50 an hour (for possibly an hour or more) for someone to attempt to make something you can buy ready made for less than half an hour's labour???
These gkasses are readily available from several sources - several of which I have posted. If the OP has me "plonked" and therefore isn't getting the information I guess it's his loss.
Virtually every brass pipe thread fitting I have ever used was NPTF.
Steel and iron pipe are a different story.
Using teflon tape on an oil pressure switch that needs to ground a small signal current almost guarantees a failure of the switch function. On sensors that depend on ground through the body of the sensor, same problem.. These switches and sensors have always been NPTF in my experience., along with the "weatherhead" fittings used with them.
When I mentioned local glass companies, I was thinking 1/4" plate glass, not tempered. For a hoist, it should work, but you're not readily going to groove it cheaply or easily.
judging from the OPs pics it wasn't tempered in the first place or it would have broken up far more.
He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass? Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go.
You don't really want tempered glass. What you REALLY want is borosilicate (or Boron) glass. However, on most cases you can even get away with a lucite type plastic, at least for a couple years untill it yellows too much. But the right part is available at a reasonable cost.
There are several designs - inclusing one that takes an "O" ring around the circumference of the glass, in a groove, and one that sits against an "O" ring and is held in by another "O" ring between the glass and a clamping plate. There are also glasses that are held un by a threaded ring
No need to reply to the Whittard, clare.
I prefer the threaded style because it offers a way to apply a measured stress on the glass. It's much safer than trying to press the glass against the o-ring and then force a circlip down around the delicate edges. The latter only works well in a factory with a proper press and backing plates. Ig's hoist had an external groove, which would have made it easier for a circlip, but still hard on the glass. I'll bet his client broke it trying to remove it to clean the paint overspray, no doubt by an earlier owner.
#5? I'm about done with a little jug of Weld-On White Seal + (non-hardening with PTFE) and will probably get Rectorseal next time. WhiteSeal+ was the best at the plumbing shop a decade ago. They also carried Oatey.
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required