Roll up door installation question

In my relentless efforts to make the County happy...I have to close off one end of my carport.."no one driving by wants to look at those
ugly machines" (end exact verbal quote of lady inspector)
I scored a nice steel roll up door, was told it was 10' wide..but its 12' 5" wide x 7 feet tall.
The problem is...my carport is 11' 1.5" wide with a roof line that tapers from 11' down to 7' 6'
http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Rollup
I know Im gonna have to cut it down in width..but the problem comes in that the roll above the opening is about 15" in diameter...requireing the opening at its smallest to be 8' 3" tall....and its only 7'6"
Now I can cut the door narrower..by about 3' to clear the tapering roofline and making the rollup door about 9' wide, ...or I can mount the roll on the OUTSIDE of the carport...letting the roll be above the roofline on one end, and then box it in to hide the roll. Not gonna be pretty..but.."the ugly machines wont be visible from the street" and I can make the box out of OSB covered light square tubing, and paint it to match the house.
Are there any bad downsides to doing this? Other than having a gap that might have what little rain we have here (4" a year) run down the inside of the door...... and I might be able to flash it a bit with sheet metal
I Could lift the roofline the 9ish inches necessary to clear the roll..but it would look really really wierd being done on one end..and leave a wide gap above the rain gutter on that end for a few feet.
I put a 4x6 steel tube on the two 4" steel posts that follows the roof line
http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Rollup
and lifting the roof metal would be really ugly at that point, plus I will be putting in a matching bit of OSB to seal off the tapered portion
Lastly..I could lower the roll, and give myself a door opening about 6' 5" tall, and put the roll inside. Given that Im 6'3+ in boots and often wear a cowboy hat.......
In the pictures..the horizontal 2x4 is at 7' and is only there to be a common reference point as "grade" has a slight angle down to the building. The lot is low at the rear..and at the left side....the roofline is almost 3' higher above ground at the rear end....sigh
The bottom of the 2x4 is where the bottom of the "box" hiding the roll would be and the box would be full width and would cross below the roof line at about 4' to the left of the right hand post..about 17" x 17" in cross section and extend a bit past both posts.
What to do..what to do????
Gunner, who has to put this up Sunday...
The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality", John F. Kennedy.
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Why not leave the door the width it is and install it outside of your car port all together.
What I am picturing is building a frame that is higher and wider than your current opening and then you can just put some side walls and a small roof section to fill the gap. This way you would not loose any space but rather gain a bit around the edges.
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Gunner - stick it up on the outside of the carport, which, from the look of it, will be improved by something hiding it a bit.... (and its easier - KISS -just don't get too bogged down in being technical...)
Mines been exposed to the weather for years now, same sort of thing - in front of carport - doesn't worry it - this ones been up for about 5 years now, my wife demolished the last one by backing into it when it was closed.. A legitimate use for a 9 inch angle grinder...good fun....amused the neighbours no end....
Andrew VK3BFA.
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I would make some lightweight wooden doors/panels in a sliding or swinging configuration (or even removable).

Putting that rollup there, especially if it doesn't fit, will not be an improvement and the guvmint will come back and find something else for you to do....
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 00:37:00 -0700, Gunner Asch

You have a bunch of inferred requirements in there, including a schedule deadline of Sunday (today).
The reason for doing it is to provide visual concealment to satify the county ... right? So mount the thing like a windowshade in front of the opening, nevermind whether it fits or is raintight. All the county requires is a screen -- and you've gotten along so far with nothing but an open hole there. Right?
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wrote:

And don't forget to put pictures of nekkid wimmin on the front doing disgusting things. Refer to US Constitution for justification.
Steve
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SteveB wrote:

Other ideas for the artwork:
1: Blow up a picture of the woman giving you grief, and make a big dart board. Then paint a couple darts, right in her forehead. ;-)
2: Photoshop her head onto a chimp.
-----
Have your lady freinds write her name and office phone number in restrooms, trolling for a butch lesbian who is willing to try S&M.
Go to the local biker bars and tell them she is not only going to have them all closed, but she intends to burn them all down. ;-)
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My first inclination would be to argue with the county that "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".
Mentally of course be prepared to make some changes... I like the idea of a bedsheet curtain across the middle of the carport. Or just toss some camouflage tarpaulin over it. Ugly machinery indeed. All machinery is beautiful if it functions as required in a minimalist sort of way. Otherwise it is an ornament or statue to wastefulness.
How about a sign in front of the carport with the admonition "Looking This Way Verboten; County Deems Ugly".
If you really want ugly look at some of "modern art".
If the roll-up door is strictly to appease the county lady I wouldn't do it... What is next? The colour scheme of your house and car clash?
Writing a few letters is a lot less effort that putting up that door :-)).
Wolfgang
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Right - "no accounting for taste" is a principle of law.
But, it anti-ugly ordinances can be worded in other terms. Like "no open storage of industrial equipment in a residential zone". Where "open storage" means visible. Very likely this is the sort of thing that they're using on Gunner.
Bob
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wrote:

We have a local rowdy. I haven't lived here long enough to know the whole story, but he has a auto scrap yard on a main thoroughfare in town. There is a sign up there that says, " IF YOU WANT TO KILL YOUR BUSINESS, JUST MOVE IT TO LAVERKIN. THE CITY COUNCIL WILL DO IT FOR YOU." He also has stuff up about the United Nations and stuff. The place is clearly a dump. Lots of wrecks that look like they were ran over by a semi, then hit by a locomotive, then went over a cliff. If there were any salvageable parts, it's only metal. And there are clearly many more hulks there than customers. BUT, he stays in the lines, having everything sorted and stacked, and on his property, much to the dismay of the council.
Gunner, learn the lines and stay within them. Most of the time, the lines are able to be stretched immensely if you know them.
A neighbor complained about a travel trailer I had parked on the side of the house. Zoning said I had to move it, as it was on dirt. In front of my house, it is concrete, and zoning wise an acceptable part of a yard on which to park a travel trailer. So, I moved it in FRONT of my house on the concrete driveway, directly across the street from Mr. Nosy. He called in again, and was quoted the law. Since a report had been made I could NOT move it back over to the dirt strip where it would have made everyone happy. I sold it about two months later, but I had two months of laughing at an idiot who didn't know when it was better to just shut the fuck up.
The zoning guy was nice, and we had a chuckle at the neighbor.
Steve
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"SteveB" (clip) The zoning guy was nice, and we had a chuckle at the neighbor. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Very often there will be one person in a neighborhood who gets on everyone else's case. The inspectors soon get tired of such a person, and will give you every break they can. We had a neighbor who complained because the children walked on the sidewalk in front of her house on the way to and from school.
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 00:37:00 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,

She's probably an Aprhodite lookalike herself, eh?

That makes for tricky top hinging. <g> (Yes, I'm kidding, you A/Rs.)

You're worried about "pretty" on a several decade old trailer in Taft, Fort Stinkin'Desert? <guffaw>
Gunner, just weld up a pair of tapered 1" square steel frames and cover them with galv roofing or white corrugated fiberglass. Instant doors. White FG will allow daylight through. Aw, shit. I forgot about the rise in the driveway to the street. Well, start them a foot high. It still covers the "ugly machines".
Cheap, lightweight, usable.

So mount a pair of bedsheets in the interim.
-- It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness; poverty and wealth have both failed. -- Kin Hubbard
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 07:50:21 -0700, Larry Jaques

Ahumphf! Manufactured home....top of the line!...once...

Id planned on putting in a pair of barn doors..but that damned rise in the drive way kicked my ass. Swinging 5' 6" (each door) means that they hit dirt about 4' out.....hence the roll up door thingy. My forklift is 6' 7"....was hoping to keep being able to use it...if you remember..the carport gets taller the farther back you go to the rear by several feet..but sliding the forklift in from the rear means moving LOTS of stuff just to get to the front.
I think Ill go ahead and put up the roll up door across the outside and if Aphrodite doesnt like it..she can put it in writing. Im already out several thousand $ putting up fences, moving out Stuff and so forth. The roll up door only cost me some a bit in gas to go get it.

Thanks guys
Gunner
The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality", John F. Kennedy.
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 10:13:33 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,

Yeah, that's what I said, "Trailer." ;)

That's why I mentioned starting it at a foot from the ground, thinking that might be enough clearance. Alternatively, put in a set of 2' wide accordion-folding doors which would roll on a track at the top.

OK, G'luck! Let's hope she doesn't say it's ugly, too.

Jewelcome.
-- It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness; poverty and wealth have both failed. -- Kin Hubbard
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 10:31:48 -0700, Larry Jaques

No..not a trailer. Wood siding, shingle roof, sunken bath and $54k in 1982 isnt a trailer.

They cost a fair amount of change to be usable outside. Not in the cards.

The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality", John F. Kennedy.
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:39:24 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

Was the bath sunken at the factory, or after you invited Two Ton Tillie over...? ;-P
Technical Nit: It isn't really called "Manufactured Housing" unless it has been placed on a permanent foundation and the axles removed - we have one of those down the block, a 'quadruple wide'. It gets sold every few years and we clue in the new owners who didn't understand the escrow papers they were signing with a "Gee, I remember when they trucked this house in from the factory..."
If you look underneath and see jacks, it's a Mobile Home. Period. And either way, you don't call your local County Building & Safety for permits, you call the State Housing Department.

Whatever you do, do NOT screw up the roll-up door to where it can't be reused later. You might find a nice ocean shipper you want to put the door on the side.
Or you might win the lottery and decide to call General Steel and build a real shop with a slab floor and four nice secure walls, and rebuild the carport area into a real "Hey, I can park cars in it!"

I would box in around the door roll mostly to keep the rain out of it, and secondarily because the Code Maven will complain if it looks just as bad but differently...
Remember to put in truss-style diagonals on the false cover, a light square tubing falsework frame could start to sag real fast, and if it hits the door it'll wreck it real fast. Diagonals in compression!
If you want to make it look really slick, make a Mansard Roof 45-degree angle that you can cover with 1/2" Ply and 3-tab shingles. Kinda match the roofing style of the rest of the house. Err, Coach.
--<< Bruce >>--
PS: Said coach doesn't have aluminum wiring, does it? And if it does, you *have* had it all pigtailed, right?
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 17:38:35 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman

Good idea!

Nope copper thru and thru. I dont think Skyline ever used aluminum or that god awful plastic pipe that exploded in a couple years. Copper plumbing, Price Phister etc etc. This one was the top of the line when it was sold and I bought it when it was 2 yrs old..a repo. In 1984.
Shrug....its a bit tired now, needs some TLC but nothing major. Does need a half a roof, will be doing that in a couple months before the rain starts but after the hot season. The toilet in the guest bathroom doesnt want to flush every time, need to replace some seals in facuets and what not. Not being home for weeks at a time and having the house sitter being handicapped...shrug
Gunner
The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality", John F. Kennedy.
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"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote: (clip) PS: Said coach doesn't have aluminum wiring, does it? And if it

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I'd like to know more about pigtailing. Is it what it sounds like: putting copper "pigtails" on the ends of the aluminum wire? Is this an accepted fix?
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On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:35:33 GMT, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:

IF it is done with the proper equipment and techniques, that is the accepted and legal way to fix the problem.
They have to open up every single receptacle, light, switch, and splice box in the entire coach, and if some dummy installed the furnace or water heater in front of a box it has to come out. And they have to practically tear the joint apart to search - If they miss just one splice box, guess where the trouble will start...
The first step is to take notes of how it's all connected in the box you are working on. (This step is quite important, you want things to work when you are done...) ;-)
Take all the existing splice connections apart, strip back the wire to clean aluminum with no stripping nicks, then scrub it with Noalox and an aluminum brush. Then they take 1' pre-cuts of THHN/THWN copper wire and crimp them on with special barrel splice connectors and a special battery operated crimping tool from TYCO/Amphenol. Then they insulate the crimp splice with the heavy heat-shrink tubing with a bit of hot-melt glue inside as a sealant. Tuck it all into the back into the box, and then make the connections to the receptacle or light switch with the copper wire.
The tools are Not Cheap and they only sell or lease them to contractors who go to the Midwest (Cleveland?) and take a two day training course. Same falderol with only selling the supplies to authorized installers, unless there's a distributor that develops "temporary amnesia" - but if anything went wrong their asses would be in a sling. I looked into getting the stuff, but if you don't do it all day every day it wouldn't pay. And I don't.
The other legal way is special Purple CO/ALR wirenuts with double springs to maintain tension, and they are pre-filled with Noalox compound. But they are over $1 wholesale each even in bulk (I carry a 25 pack) so you don't want to use hundreds of them, and they are larger than the usual wirenuts so they fill boxes fast. But they are the only option for working with aluminum house wiring.
Unless you want to strip open the interior walls and ceilings of the coach or house and re-rope it all with Copper Romex - which might be a viable choice if large portions of the paneling has gone to crap, or you know the exterior walls aren't insulated properly.
--<< Bruce >>--
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"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote: (clip) The tools are Not Cheap and they only sell or lease them to

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had the idea of silver soldering copper pigtails to the aluminum wire and then shrinkwrapping. Assuming that the torch technique doesn't mess up the aluminum insulation too much (strip back far enough, in and out quickly with the heat, Vise-grip heat sink on the aluminum wire and maybe use a squirt bottle to cool) do you think it has possibilities?
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