Roll up door installation question

How bout curtains? Buy some polyethylene sheet, preferably white, and hang

2 or 3 ft. wide strips with a little overlap. Some pebbles in the bottom to hold them verticle and a desk style stapler for the fastening.

Hardware stores carried clear polyethylene sheet in the past, perhaps they still do. White might be a search, though. If you find a good source, multi colors would look great. All things considered, maybe pink.

Want to enter? -just drive through.

Hul

Gunner Asch wrote:

Was the bath sunken at the factory, or after you invited Two Ton Tillie over...? ;-P

Technical Nit: It isn't really called "Manufactured Housing" unless it has been placed on a permanent foundation and the axles removed - we have one of those down the block, a 'quadruple wide'. It gets sold every few years and we clue in the new owners who didn't understand the escrow papers they were signing with a "Gee, I remember when they trucked this house in from the factory..."

If you look underneath and see jacks, it's a Mobile Home. Period. And either way, you don't call your local County Building & Safety for permits, you call the State Housing Department.

Whatever you do, do NOT screw up the roll-up door to where it can't be reused later. You might find a nice ocean shipper you want to put the door on the side.

Or you might win the lottery and decide to call General Steel and build a real shop with a slab floor and four nice secure walls, and rebuild the carport area into a real "Hey, I can park cars in it!"

I would box in around the door roll mostly to keep the rain out of it, and secondarily because the Code Maven will complain if it looks just as bad but differently...

Remember to put in truss-style diagonals on the false cover, a light square tubing falsework frame could start to sag real fast, and if it hits the door it'll wreck it real fast. Diagonals in compression!

If you want to make it look really slick, make a Mansard Roof

45-degree angle that you can cover with 1/2" Ply and 3-tab shingles. Kinda match the roofing style of the rest of the house. Err, Coach.

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PS: Said coach doesn't have aluminum wiring, does it? And if it does, you *have* had it all pigtailed, right?

I'll bet Gunner is setting up his alibi!

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:39:24 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner Asch quickly quoth:

You still haven't realized that I was simply grinning and repeatedly pressing your hot button there, have you?

I meant home-brew 2'-wide-panel accordians (with scrap steel and scrap door hinges). Well, I guess the fiberglass roofing would set you back a Benjy, so settle for white-painted scrap corrugated roofing.

-- It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness; poverty and wealth have both failed. -- Kin Hubbard

"SteveB" (clip) The zoning guy was nice, and we had a chuckle at the neighbor. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Very often there will be one person in a neighborhood who gets on everyone else's case. The inspectors soon get tired of such a person, and will give you every break they can. We had a neighbor who complained because the children walked on the sidewalk in front of her house on the way to and from school.

We have a local rowdy. I haven't lived here long enough to know the whole story, but he has a auto scrap yard on a main thoroughfare in town. There is a sign up there that says, " IF YOU WANT TO KILL YOUR BUSINESS, JUST MOVE IT TO LAVERKIN. THE CITY COUNCIL WILL DO IT FOR YOU." He also has stuff up about the United Nations and stuff. The place is clearly a dump. Lots of wrecks that look like they were ran over by a semi, then hit by a locomotive, then went over a cliff. If there were any salvageable parts, it's only metal. And there are clearly many more hulks there than customers. BUT, he stays in the lines, having everything sorted and stacked, and on his property, much to the dismay of the council.

Gunner, learn the lines and stay within them. Most of the time, the lines are able to be stretched immensely if you know them.

A neighbor complained about a travel trailer I had parked on the side of the house. Zoning said I had to move it, as it was on dirt. In front of my house, it is concrete, and zoning wise an acceptable part of a yard on which to park a travel trailer. So, I moved it in FRONT of my house on the concrete driveway, directly across the street from Mr. Nosy. He called in again, and was quoted the law. Since a report had been made I could NOT move it back over to the dirt strip where it would have made everyone happy. I sold it about two months later, but I had two months of laughing at an idiot who didn't know when it was better to just shut the f*ck up.

The zoning guy was nice, and we had a chuckle at the neighbor.

Steve

And what about that smell????????????

EEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!

Steve ;-)

You have lots of acreage and lots of machinery ........................

True story:

In Las Vegas, the encroaching civilization built a road through some previous desert. In that desert was a car that had been there twenty years that I knew of. The "car" IIRC was an early fifties Cheby, about '52. It had a body, a rear axle, front A frames, and four hubs. Nothing else.

When the freeway came through, by law, they had to put a sticker on it for

90(!) days that said the "owner" had 90 days to remove the carcass. The local news carried the story, and lots of people stopped and had their picture taken with the upside down car with the orange "official" notice on it.

Day 91, it disappeared.

WE HAVE LAWS AND THEY MUST BE FOLLOWED!

Steve

Go to the local fabric store, buy enough fabric to make a curtain, hang it over the opening and tell the county to kiss your ass.

Jim

Good idea!

Nope copper thru and thru. I dont think Skyline ever used aluminum or that god awful plastic pipe that exploded in a couple years. Copper plumbing, Price Phister etc etc. This one was the top of the line when it was sold and I bought it when it was 2 yrs old..a repo. In 1984.

Shrug....its a bit tired now, needs some TLC but nothing major. Does need a half a roof, will be doing that in a couple months before the rain starts but after the hot season. The toilet in the guest bathroom doesnt want to flush every time, need to replace some seals in facuets and what not. Not being home for weeks at a time and having the house sitter being handicapped...shrug

Gunner

The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral crisis maintain their neutrality", John F. Kennedy.

I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Gunner Asch wrote on Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:55:03 -0700 in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Got to watch them Grandmother types. They may appear all sweet and 'harmless' - but they're Grandmothers. They've got kids older than you, and they don't take lip from them either!

If only it wasn't in California.

-- pyotr filipivich "I had just been through hell and must have looked like death warmed over walking into the saloon, because when I asked the bartender whether they served zombies he said, ?Sure, what'll you have?'" from I Hear America Swinging by Peter DeVries

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote: (clip) PS: Said coach doesn't have aluminum wiring, does it? And if it

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I'd like to know more about pigtailing. Is it what it sounds like: putting copper "pigtails" on the ends of the aluminum wire? Is this an accepted fix?

You could get 100s of guys to write to the county commenting on the improved appearance of your place due to the machinery present.

=)

I love this stuff.

municipalities around here have zoning rules about signs, so lots of guys just mount the signs on top of legal automobiles and park them anywhere it is legal to park.

The new thing is old Uhaul trucks with billboards on the side, again, parked anywhere it is legal to park.

On any given day you'll see 3 of em at wal-mart

IF it is done with the proper equipment and techniques, that is the accepted and legal way to fix the problem.

They have to open up every single receptacle, light, switch, and splice box in the entire coach, and if some dummy installed the furnace or water heater in front of a box it has to come out. And they have to practically tear the joint apart to search - If they miss just one splice box, guess where the trouble will start...

The first step is to take notes of how it's all connected in the box you are working on. (This step is quite important, you want things to work when you are done...) ;-)

Take all the existing splice connections apart, strip back the wire to clean aluminum with no stripping nicks, then scrub it with Noalox and an aluminum brush. Then they take 1' pre-cuts of THHN/THWN copper wire and crimp them on with special barrel splice connectors and a special battery operated crimping tool from TYCO/Amphenol. Then they insulate the crimp splice with the heavy heat-shrink tubing with a bit of hot-melt glue inside as a sealant. Tuck it all into the back into the box, and then make the connections to the receptacle or light switch with the copper wire.

The tools are Not Cheap and they only sell or lease them to contractors who go to the Midwest (Cleveland?) and take a two day training course. Same falderol with only selling the supplies to authorized installers, unless there's a distributor that develops "temporary amnesia" - but if anything went wrong their asses would be in a sling. I looked into getting the stuff, but if you don't do it all day every day it wouldn't pay. And I don't.

The other legal way is special Purple CO/ALR wirenuts with double springs to maintain tension, and they are pre-filled with Noalox compound. But they are over $1 wholesale each even in bulk (I carry a

25 pack) so you don't want to use hundreds of them, and they are larger than the usual wirenuts so they fill boxes fast. But they are the only option for working with aluminum house wiring.

Unless you want to strip open the interior walls and ceilings of the coach or house and re-rope it all with Copper Romex - which might be a viable choice if large portions of the paneling has gone to crap, or you know the exterior walls aren't insulated properly.

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"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote: (clip) The tools are Not Cheap and they only sell or lease them to

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had the idea of silver soldering copper pigtails to the aluminum wire and then shrinkwrapping. Assuming that the torch technique doesn't mess up the aluminum insulation too much (strip back far enough, in and out quickly with the heat, Vise-grip heat sink on the aluminum wire and maybe use a squirt bottle to cool) do you think it has possibilities?

[ ... ]

Lots of useful information snipped. Thanks!

Just one minor nit here. The crimper/connector company which was absorbed by TYCO is "AMP" not "Amphenol". Amphenol also makes connectors (and has for years), many with crimp insert terminals, but also many with solder cup terminals. AMP, the best of my knowledge, has always made only connectors with crimp insert terminals.

IIRC, "AMP" originally stood for "American Molded Phenol", and Amphenol does sound very similar -- but they are a different company. Amphenol (and Cannon) made the MS (Mil Standard) series connectors, while all by AMP have been their own design, except for commodity things like the DB-25 connectors used for RS-232.

I've been collecting *good* crimpers and crimp terminals for years -- since about the late 1960s IIRC, and among other things now have the crimpers (and most of the ring terminals) from 28 Ga wire up to

4/0. Everything from 8 Ga up through 4/0 is hydraulically powered, the smaller ones are simple compound leverage ones with ratchets controlling travel so you *have* to complete a crimp cycle before you can open your crimper.

Your battery operated ones are likely to be a battery powering a built-in hydraulic pump, since a worm screw would be likely to wear and produce a looser crimp over the years. I've not seen the ones you are talking about -- but would like to. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

Dont. Even. Think. About. It.

If you don't stick with approved methods and materials, *after* the fire they will tear the place apart looking for the point of origin.

The investigators will find your handiwork in the area that burned, and can easily take apart another box at the other end of the house to see an unburned example. And then there will be much displeasure - Your homeowners policy could easily decide to not pay to rebuild the house, and you don't want that. Especially since the bank still wants that last 15 or 20 years of payments.

It's not a bad idea, though you would have big problems with cooked insulation because aluminum is too good a heat conductor. You'd have to be lightning fast and I know how easily it is (NOT) to get aluminum clean enough to wet with the tin or silver. You'll be concentrating on getting the end tinned and the cooked insulation could easily extend back outside the box before you see it and can react, making a huge mess to fix.

When they make tinned aluminum busbars or wire, it's done with bare bar stock or bare wire - they add the insulation later.

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