Toilet valves that do NOT leak?

It has been 52 years since we pioneered outer space, 45 years since we
flew to the moon, a computer that would take a whole room when I was
born, would now fit into my pocket.
And yet my fucking toilets leak water!
I bought and installed brand new kits some time ago and it does not
help, they still leak.
How come a nuclear attack submarine does not leak at 600 feet of
water, and my toilet leaks. What the fuck.
Anyway, are there any better working toilet valve sets that do not get
stuck, unbalanced, leaky, creaky, etc? I can actually pay premium
money for a good set.
Thanks for your suggestions.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus4900
Loading thread data ...
...
...
What's the supply water pressure? If too high that can cause the issue.
Reply to
dpb
What leaks is the valve that is between the tank and the toilet.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus4900
The flapper valve.
Is it's seat clean/smooth. Also, the vertical overflow tube assy could have a crack in it, allowing water to bypass the flapper valve all together.
Check this:
formatting link

Erik
Reply to
Erik
One other thing to be careful about is that your chain is not getting kinked or the handle sticking and keeping the flapper slightly unseated. My chlorine tablets sometimes (once a year?) get lodged in there, too.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
Yup, the flapper. I've had pretty good luck with the soft rubber flappers that are red with a stainless wire chain. I've gotten them at the local Ace hardware. They seem to last about 10 years in a pretty busy house (8 people for a number of years, now down to 7).
One thing to check is that there isn't calcium build-up in the tank. The stuff forms "rocks" in the bottom of the tank and these can chew up the flapper, or even the metal fitting at the bottom of the tank. Once the metal seat for the flapper is chewed up, no flapper will seal well.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
You chlorinate toilet flush water?
Reply to
John B.
Are you sure that the water is going through the valve and not siphoning through the bowl refill tube? If the end of that tube is below the water level when the tank is full, then water will siphon out through the refill tube. The fix is to cut the tube so that the end is _above_ the full tank water level.
Reply to
Robert Nichols
We used to do that years ago. It did help prevent bowl staining due to hard water. But it also caused the flapper valves (2 different toilets) to develop ripples around the thin sealing edge. Tried several brands, they all did the same thing after about a year. Gave up on the chlorine tablets and after that the flappers have lasted for 10 years so far.
Reply to
whoyakidding's ghost
Those tablets ate away the tank-to-bowl mounting bolts in my mother-in-laws upstairs guest bathroom. When the bolt heads disintegrated, the water leakage took out the ceiling in the downstairs entry hall. I found similar corrosion in her other two toilets. A sticker inside each tank specifically warned NOT to use any sort of cleaning tablet in the tank.
Reply to
Larry Kraus
Larry Kraus fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Not for nothin', Larry, but one is supposed to LOOK in the tank occasionally. Maintenance has merits.
I know... most Americans today couldn't maintain a wad of Play-Doh, but still...
SINCE this is a machining group... an enterprising machinist could make use of some teflon for the seat and a polished hollow stainless steel ball to make a 'permanent' flapper in the schema of the old rod-and-ball seals. Flappers are only flexible so they don't have to be made to precision to seal.
Me? Shit... JUST the flapper can be had for $4.00. It takes two minutes to install. I just use the chlorine tabs, and (um...) _maintain_ the systems.
LLoyd
Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Kristian Ukkonen fired this volley in news:KfKtt.20168$ snipped-for-privacy@uutiset.elisa.fi:
That only contributes a little. The real story is the loss of plasticizers in the rubbery 'stuff' they make the flappers from.
Most are PVC or vinyl-based rubbers, and as the plasticizers slowly dissolve in the water, they get stiff.
LLoyd
Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Depends.. In my case, I'm pretty confident the inlet filter solved the problems.
Before that, cleaning the stuff from the valves made them to work for a few months/years. For cleaning, acetic acid seemed to be a good chemical - much easier cleaning than with soap water. Take apart, clean parts in acetic acid (10-20%) with brush, wash with water, assemble again. It made the rubber/plastic parts really clean easily.
Well, *knock* *knock*, I have not had to clean any valve or temperature regulator after installing the inlet filter. In my case I'm pretty confident that was the cure.
OTOH: if you have old black iron water pipes instead of PEX plastic, then the water pipes THEMSELVES are the source of the problem causing stuff. They are filled with rusty stuff, you can't see through an old black iron water pipe. Only easy solution IMHO (in addition to replacing with PEX) is to add 10um filter before each toilet mechanism.. Just my opinion. Easy to try.. I would..
Reply to
Kristian Ukkonen
Good one! I'll be commandeering that.
Reply to
Tom Gardner
Well, chlorine is a bleach so I suppose it would tend to remove (or bleach) stains inside the tank....
Reply to
John B.
I've used chlorine for decades and have never lost a brass screw to them.
Hmm, now that you mention it, the rubber seals under those very mildly green brass bolts (11 years old) aren't looking so hot. I have spares, so that won't take long. I've only replaced one set of those so far in my lifetime, too.
Reply to
Larry Jaques

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.