O.K. Posting from rec.crafts.metalworking as usual.
792) It looks like one variant on chem lab hardware -- clamps to allow mounting two rod supports parallel to each other. (Others mount them at right angles, or at variable angles, as well as ones which clamp the necks of Florence flasks, test tubes, and the like.It is obviously made from an aluminum extrusion purpose designed to be cut into many of these.
793) An adjustable height support -- and a jack which would be a bit awkward to use for any significant weight.Pressing the two sharp points towards the center should allow it to be slid freely up and down -- decoupling the jackscrew from the outer frame.
If you adjust it to near height, then put a significant weight on it which needs to be adjusted up a bit more, it is done by sticking a rod into the holes in the knurled knob just below the top plate, and using the rod to rotate the jackscrew. You'll have to shift the rod about every quarter turn, so it is not very good for a large range of adjustment.
Note that the threads on the screw are buttress threads, instead of normal V-threads.
Based on the size, it is a cute little device.
794) Hmm ... is that wood? If so, I will guess that it is part of a nutcracker. 795) Is the end of this one hollow? If so, I would call it a punch for making holes in leather -- perhaps with a spring-loaded snap in the increased diameter part.If not -- there are hints of a hex shape to the end, which would make it a long extension Allen driver.
I don't see a retaining collar, so it may not be possible to change the bits -- otherwise it would be a more general purpose screwdriver, depending on which bits were installed.
796) What that looks like is a vibration reducer for something supported by steel cables or perhaps even chains. The curved groove would be filled with rubber, so there would be some give.It looks quite old -- old enough to put it back to the time that rubber vulcanization was not yet widely used, thus the hardening with age.
797) The carefully selected angle of the photo suggests to me that there is another hole, of larger diameter, in the upper span of the wood.It *could* be only part way through, but deep enough to allow the bottom of the golf tee to clear the lower span, and then be tipped forward or to the side away from the view.
Or -- it equally could be all the way through, thus making it easy to lift the tee all the way through and remove it (or reverse that to install it).
*Or* -- the hole in the bottom span could be larger in diameter between the upper and lower ends of the known hole, thus allowing the tee to be tipped once it has been lifted a bit. This could include a hole from the "back" (the upright) to give it the freedom of motion needed.Now to see what others have posted.
Enjoy, DoN.