Wobbly drill press

I would remove the chuck and indicate the spindle. Odds are if its the original chuck thats made in China or Taiwan it could be out very easily either by being made that way or b wear and tear. Unless someone tried to pry off the spindle they are pretty hard to bend with just drilling, unless a lot of sideload was placed on them. I bet its the chuck.

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wrt dp>

I would remove the chuck and indicate the spindle. Odds are if its the

Yes. If the part above the chuck Spehro already indicated is the spindle, that points to a bad chuck situation.

Take the chuck off (it's always nice if it's a Morse taper in the spindle, or could be a thread)--and try another in its place, as a first inquiry. Frank Morrison

It's a Morse MT2 taper, got it off, but nothing else to try in there at the moment. Whatever's holding on the chuck side of the arbor is stubborn. Even the outside of the chuck nose indicates as pretty good, so it's probably the chuck. What I can see inside of the jaws is chewed up a fair bit.

Are the import Albrecht-type chucks (~$30 US not the $200 for the real thing) any good at all?

Thanks Frank and Roy. Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

I suppose they make good fishing sinkers. I've replaced all the knock off keyless chucks in my shop with good key type ball bearing Jacobs chucks. I want a drill chuck to get and stay *tight*. I've found the cheap keyless chucks don't. They don't have to slip but once to ruin the jaws.

Gary

Go for a used Super Ball Bearing Jacobs chuck instead, for about $30 to $40 on ebay.

Okay. Got it. Thanks (& you too, Gary).

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Spehro Pefhany snipped-for-privacy@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat

wrt drill quill

It's a Morse MT2 taper, got it off, but nothing else to try in there

A ground MT tool (drill, reamer...) will do, if you don't have an MT2 test bar.

And another option than chuck choice is forego the chuck for individual MT tooling. More accurate, more room. FM