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Chester D19 drill press

I'm looking to replace my "hobby" drill press with something a bit
more substantial.
The Chester D19 seems to be the beefiest I can find within my budget
but I would be grateful to hear from anyone who has experience of
these drills.
The D16 seems to have only a slight decrease in various of the
specifications but comes in at almost halft the weight, which I find
surprising.
Previous experience has put me off the Sealey/Clarke line of drills
and is seems that buying second hand ones can be a bit of a lottery.
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
Loading thread data ...
Seems the Axminster ED16B2 is the same drill in slightly different colours, and the only review on their site containis "Only negative point is built quality which lets it down a tad"
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
For 212 quid you would be much better off buying a second hand lump of British cast iron. Startrite, Meddings, Fobco etc are amongst good names to go for.
Bob
Reply to
Bob Minchin
Thanks Bob.
I've found myself a Meddings drill, so I'll see how I get on with that.
Next on the learning curve is 3ph to 1ph conversion :-O
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
You might find this useful
formatting link
back to me directly if you need more help Bob
Reply to
Bob Minchin
You should be well pleased with that. Some years ago I built a hydraulic press that required about 12, 1" clearance holes in 2" steel. My single phase 3/4HP chinese drill took almost 5 minutes per hole. The 3 phase 3/4HP Meddings at work flexed less and drilled each one in less than half the time. I was never sure whether the advantage was from 3 phase or the better drill. I suspect a combination of both since the chinese belts slipped unless run VERY tight.
John
Reply to
John
Many thanks Bob - a most interesting read.
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
Before that seems to come wiring it up again.
The main switch has a severed length of 15A three core mains cable attached to the three poles opposing the motor connections. I strongly suspect this isn't how it's meant to be wired up.
Is there a PDF available of the correct wiring for this switch ?
Or will that depend upon, or affect, the invertor I purchase ?
The switch seems to have two indicated postions. One icon is of a drill bit turning, which seems fairly self explanatory. The other icon looks like a square with foud HV flashes at the corners. What does that one signify ?
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
My mistake, it's a circle, with four HV flashes.
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
The motor on this drill has the following ident plate information:
Brook Motors Ltd 240/420-460/1740/60hz T4LV4R Class - E Phase - 3 Rating - CONT 50Hz Enc - DP 250W FL Current - 1.2 0.7 Voltage - 220 380-420 FL Speed - 1440
It was obvisously green when fitted, as the ident plate has blue paint over the edges. Can anyone shed any light on this motor ? Is it likely to be original ?
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris
On my Meddings drill that one means stop - the other two unmarked positions are also on and off. I have some time ago taken the switch out and as I recall it is a 3 pole switch so could be used for single or three phase (mine is single phase).
Russell
Reply to
Russell
I'd use the existing 3ph motor and add a single-to-3ph VFD. Once you've used variable speed control on a drill you'll never want to be without. You get instant reverse too. (Ditto for lathes and mills).
Reply to
lemel_man
Finally got the 3ph working - don't you just hate it when you ring a company to find out where your order is and they tell you it's scheduled to be despatched that day >-|
The next problem is that the belt is shot. This one is marked Z1080 M42, which seems to make it a 3/8" x 42" belt. Before I order a replacement on a purely like-for-like basis, can anyone confirm if this is the correct belt for a Meddings DrillTru ?
Adrian
Reply to
Adrian Harris
I can't answer your question directly but if the puley width is around 3/8" or 10mm then this is the right section of belt sometimes known as SPZ or older belts M section. At this sort of belth length they are available in 1" steps which equated to 1/2" step between pulley centres Check to see if your current belt can be tensioned in the mid range of adjustment on all pulley steps. allowing for wear in the old belt which will make it run deeper in the vees if anything, decide if a centre distance of 1/2" less would still mean a shorter belt would fit on all steps. If possible I would buy a cogged vee belt as these are more flexible and smoother running thus inducing less vibration. Cogged belts often have an X in the designation eg SPZX 1078.
hth
Bob
Reply to
Bob Minchin
Thanks again Bob.
I'll take some measurements and see what size is the best looking fit.
It's interesting you recommend a cogged belt - my instnct would have been that that type of belt would introduce vibration rather than reduce it.
Adrian.
Reply to
Adrian Harris

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