Interesting video clip from U-Tube

Yeah, i posted a link to that a few weeks back somewhere ...and asked some questions that no-one answered ... what speed do you think that lathe going...... 5000 rpm ???

is this technique possible on a large lathe ...dont fancy having my fingers ...or me close to my lathe at anything above 2000 rpm ...as its very frightening.

unless i was using collets....and then ...ummm ...its still un- nerving.

All the best.mark

Being U-tube I was expecting blood and gore from his knuckles too.

I was also surprised he didn't snap the slender drill.

Not tried the graver method of centre drilling yet either.

Bill H Derby

This is a method used by watch and clock makers. It works better if the lathe has a proper tool rest. A twist drill is not the best for this type of job. I always use a spade bit. These can be made from sewing needles, or purchased as watchmakers pivot drills. It's important to make sure that a pip is not left in the cone turned in the end of the rod.

Steve R.

As an aside, can somebody please tell me if I should be hearing sound with that clip. The volume control below the clip suggests that I should but how can I tell if the OP included a sound file with his upload? --

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

I get sound.

In message , mark writes

I think the lathe is a 'Sherline' which is listed as having a maximum speed of 2800 rpm.

In another video from the same guy (making a form tool) he uses the term "drill rod". Would that be what in the UK is called "silver steel" ?

Ummm ... Why not use a center-bore to get the ... center? The drill looks like 1mm and this really isn't very spectacular. Works with a tailstock without problems and is much saver than his procedure.

I'd like to see him doing it with a 0.3mm drill. It will break in no time considering how misaligned it was on the video.

Nick

On or around 3 Apr 2007 15:55:15 -0700, "mark" enlightened us thusly:

clever sod, ain't he. hmmm... start the hole in the centre and it'll drill true, eh?

I had a new 20mm bit that made a horrible hole - when I looked at it it was ground off-centre. re-grinding it helped.

In article , Mike H writes

Yes.

David

The drill-rod is of an bit better quality then the silver steel. But both are water hardening, good for cutting, Cr and Mo alloyed and can't stand heat during usage (not comparable to HSS).

Nick

I have seen a certain cynical trader use a similar technique with an LH turning tool to make a centre hole in the end of a motor shaft that had been repaired by welding. In that case, a centre drill would have broken off as soon as it saw the end of the shaft.

Mark Rand RTFM

Thanks...problem solved. --

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

he he ...take a look at this ...

Yes!

Steve R.

Hi Mark. Interesting but by halfway through I was starting to feel Seasick! He must have the camera strapped on his head.

What this guy is attempting to do is to drill the jet hole right through, if it is a needle valve. He could have drilled the needle size, probably 1/16th, to depth, reversed the valve and opened up the nipple end then drilled the jet hole through the small amount left between the two holes, to give the required restriction. I have made many of these valves like this with no bother, using normal HSS twist drills. I do however us CZ121 free-cutting brass. It does, as he demonstrates, require withdrawing the drill a few times to clear the flutes. His method looks like an accident trying to happen!