air brushes

I picked up an Iwata double action (Eclipse HP-CS) after a 20 year hiatus from modeling and I LOVE it. A little pricey (about $130), but if you have a Hobby Lobby in the area you can get it for 40% off...I was leary of the double action since I've only used a single action years ago -- I shouldn't have been afraid of it. I'm not the greatest, but I've been able to paint a line as small as a .5 lead pencil which should be good for most camo requirements (or so I imagine). It probably even gets finer than that but I'm not there yet (I heard an Iwata rep was demonstrating it at a show and was painting eyes on a figure). You should get an air supply that can control the pressure between 5-40 psi to get all the bang out of it (so I'm told)...

Not sure what the other models/brands go for, but I figure I'll be able to hand it down to the next generation of modellers so it was worth it to me.

Most of all, have fun researching and buying!

Try the Badger 200.

I first bought one in 1980. I replaced it in 2002. The seals had finally worn out and were no longer made as spares. The current 200 model does not require any seals.

The Badger 200 is by no means a high-end airbrush. It is a single-action, jar fed brush and is very simple to use and maintain. I've never found the need for anything more complex. Admittedly, I have some interchangeable parts for it. When I need to do some detail work, I simply swap out the nozzle and needle and replace them with components designed for fine spraying.

The brush is inexpensive, adaptable and reliable and spares are easily available.

Paasche H is a good starter set which many brilliant modelers use happily. It's a well built, high quality brush; it's also very basic. It's easy to use and clean. The H is single action, external mix. As you get into it, you may discover that you'd like to try a double action brush....I recommend using the basic brush first.

Air source? Compressors are great, but loud. CO2 systems are great, but you may run out of air at the wrong time. Do NOT buy cans of air (such as Propel).... it's a huge waste of money, and they don't work.

I also recommend Dixie Art Supply (just google that, and it'll come right up).

---- Stephen

What kind of air supply are you using for your Iwata? jim

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a small compressor.....I was really leaning toward the single action. I have heard that "It not so much if its double or single action but the quality of work and your comfort with the tool" Also has anyone used Vallejo Acrylics? I use Tamiya now and I'm really on the fence about the results I'm getting. I have heard Vallejo paints are some of the best......

Currently I am usng a Sparmax DH-103n gravity fed, 0.3 mm nozzle, with preset handle.

And it cost me 41USD from Ericmodels in Hong-Kong. Postage was laughable.

I'ts a lot of airbrush for really little money.

Iwata Smart Jet, Studio Series. Another great buy from Hobby Lobby at 40% off (it listed at about $240). I also make (and keg) my own beer so I had been using a small 5lb CO2 cylinder but ran out at critical points a few times...really puts a damper on the modelling. It is very quiet (you can hold a normal conversation in the same room or listen to music/TV without any problem). So far no problems, but I am nowhere near a competitive level of building yet so I don't notice any of the issues I've read about (sputtering, uneven flows, moisture, etc...).

I also use an old 200. I have been looking for a new brush anyway. I guess the next time I need a seal I will be forced to make the choice :-(

I also have one of the Testors Aztek DA units. DA is nice, but I got tired of getting the nozzle/valve assembly clogged and having to pick up new ones. I fell back on the old Badger. Because of the reliability I am likely to go with a Badger DA. I can really crank back the adjustment on the 200 to get fine lines, but I do enjoy the ability to quickly go from fine to a big spray. I go that brush in about 1975.

I do not worry about an air brush novice starting with a DA. I think the learning only takes a bit longer. The biggest thing with ANY new brush is to practice for awhile with it on scrap. Do not start using a brand new brush on a really good model project!

Don Stauffer in Minnesota wrote: [snip]

I'm not sure why anyone would buy new nozzles simply because they were clogged. They are quiet simple to disassemble (although the instructions say not to do so, for obvious marketing reasons) and clean. They consist of the nozzle body, a spring and a needle. Simply pull out the needle and spring and soak the whole set in solvent. It is easiest to do this right after spraying paint, while the paint is still liquid but it can be done essentially any time, it is just a bit more difficult to get paint out of all the crannies if it has dried. I have successfully cleaned several nozzles that have been clogged for weeks.

One of these days I'll use my compressor,is there a good way of quieting it down?,Putting it on top of a wooden box seemed to work somewhat.This is one of those pancake blue ones walmart sells-campbell something.

I'm not worried about the noise.....I'm in the garage with my radio turned up.....The testors bush I have is about 12 years old, I hate the nozzels...Thats why Aztek is is not a option. The badger 200 seems a good choice. Thank you to everyone for thier insite. I have come back to modeling after about 10 years, I'm more into the details now. So I would like a good airbrush and paint. The tamiya paint sprays well but painting is another story.....Any opions?

As someone else has suggested go with the Iwata Eclipse CS. Its gravity fed, has a large cup that can hold enough paint for a 1/48th model. Its a breeze to clean and they are easy to find spares for. I've used Aztek, Paasche and Badger in fact I still have a Badger 200. But the brush I pick up and find easiest to use is the Iwata its all in the details of construction and design and the Iwata is very well thought out.

Ray

Yeah, mine were already dried. And I had heard never use lacquer thinner in the things. Now, people have told me lacquer thinner is okay. The times I clogged the nozzles was with acrylics, which are miserable to dissolve after they are dry. I have also decided NOT to spray acrylics with either of my airbrushes. I suppose I could add retardents to the acrylics, but I have such good luck with enamels that I see no reason to switch.

crimsonghost64 wrote in news:0f94f185-4c48-4b52- snipped-for-privacy@s6g2000prc.googlegroups.com:

I have used a Paasche H-1 since 1976, and continue to use it in spite of having two other, double action brushes. A rigorous discipline of cleaning will keep them working forever. My first choice these days is my Iwata, though -- double action, gravity feed, a breeze to clean and as reliable as anything I've ever owned. And, I agree, if you have a Hobby Lobby is the area, this would be a wise use of their 40% coupon this week.

Gary Anderson

Same here - can't get acrylilcs to behave in an airbrush, they always dry out too soon - sometimes halfway to the model, resulting in a flock finish! I like enamels, and stick with what I know -)

Out of curiosity, is the spring in the Aztek nozzle in the paint flow - does it get stuck with dried-up acrylic paint?

btw the spring is in the paint flow

I have found through trial and error thats its all in the amount of thinner to air pressure. I use tamiya and Gunze Sanyo paints when I spray but Valejo Model Color when I brush paint. With Tamiya I use about 25 % paint to 75% thinner. I never have problems anymore if I keep to that. Not only that but with that amount of thinner I can spray at 10-20 PSI fine and because I have a fair amount of thinner the brush is a breeze to clean. I use IsoPropanol (rubbing alcohol to thin and clean the airbrush with) Most times I strip clean the brush once per model. The rest of the time I flush a paintcup of thinners through the brush between colour changes.

Its all in the thinning and air pressure with acrylics. Actually even Enamels work the same way, they are just a bit more forgiving on gumming the brush up. Acrylics for me are easy I can paint the model in 2 or 3 colors in one sitting with acrylics.

I tried to airbrush Valejo Model Color but the paint want to separate almost immediately even with there own thinner, which is a pity since they have such a range of colours. I guess thats why they have the range of Model Air. (Not as many colours though). One thing that sometimes screws us up with paints though is that even newly bought paint may have been in the store a long time, or not been well stored enroute to the store or in the store. This is true for both Acyclics and Enamels, they dont age as well as paints use to because they dont have the additives anymore (too toxic).

I've down through the years tried airbrushing every type of acrylic and basicly returned to the paints I used originally 20 years ago (Tamiya and Gunze Sanyo) lol

Ray

When using acrylics I add a few drops or retarder. Works fine...

Thank you to all of you, you have given me food or thought.

which did you chose?