Beginning ship builder

NEITHER is a good model for a beginning ship modeler - those who try these models rarely finish them. See instead:

JK

Sagebrush wrote:

I second that emphatically. A beginner should start with something simple. Building a proper model of a square-rigged ship like Bounty isn't all that less intricate consuming than building a full-sized version. Blue Jacket Ship Crafters

has an excellent selection of model kits for all skill levels from beginner to expert. The ratings for these models are correct. Many manufacturers list kits as "beginner", when actually they are for advanced modelers. The Woodenboat store also has excellent kits for beginners -- most are of small sialing dinghy's and small race boats, but they are a lot trickier than they seem. The FAQ has a lot of good advice and sources. Watch out for foreign kits. The quality varies all over the lot. The plans can be mysterious and the instructions, such as they are, are often written in Hindustani or Babylonian Cuneaform. In addtion, wood may be inferior, die cutting approximate, and you might spend twice as much on replacement fittings as the original kit costs. If you're out to get a good looking model for the shelf -- if you haven't done so yet, build a plastic kit. They're a lot cheaper than a wooden model, look good on the shelf, and are an excellent first exercise preparatory to building a proper wooden ship model.

The sad statistics is that 95% of all wood model kits are never finished. They are not finished because the would-be builder has been misled or under-estimates (typically through understandable ignorance) the difficulty and complexity of the craft. You don't want to be part of the

95%. Start with something easy -- designed for a beginner -- it will be challenging enough to get it right. Then do a schooner or two -- and only after that, do a full rigged ship.

Boris

I actually built the mini Mamoli H.M.S. Bounty. If built out of box it comes off looking like one of those simple models you might find at a furniture store. You get a solid hull, a collection of dowels, some planking, sail cloth, some line, an extremely simplified rigging plan, and a few detail parts--lites, anchor, gratings, etc. If you're satisfied with that then it's quite an easy build. To make the thing look like a "serious" effort an awful lot of detail will need to be added by the modeler. So much so that as an intro to ship modeling I think the plastic Revell H.M.S. Bounty would be the better choice.

Frank

John,

Thanks very much for the advice and the link. It's just what I was looking for.

Sagebrush

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Sagebrush wrote:

The entire Shipmodeling FAQ is available at:

... bookmark it!

John Kopf

Sagebrush wrote:

Hi,

Thanks for the ideas. I've thought of doing a plastic model but frankly I'm not keen on working with airplane glue. It's been a long time since I've done plastic models so maybe there's something less toxic and less smelly being used these days. Can you recommend a substitute?

Thanks, Sagebrush

I actually built the mini Mamoli H.M.S. Bounty. If built out of box it comes off looking like one of those simple models you might find at a furniture store. You get a solid hull, a collection of dowels, some planking, sail cloth, some line, an extremely simplified rigging plan, and a few detail parts--lites, anchor, gratings, etc. If you're satisfied with that then it's quite an easy build. To make the thing look like a "serious" effort an awful lot of detail will need to be added by the modeler. So much so that as an intro to ship modeling I think the plastic Revell H.M.S. Bounty would be the better choice.

Frank

Superglues are a good substitute. They cure quickly and don't soften the plastic.

Frank

Superglues are a good substitute. They cure quickly and don't soften the plastic.

Frank

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Hi,

I did a bit of searching around the Net and saw reference to a 5 minute epoxy glue. Is that a good type of glue to use for plastic models?

Thanks, Sagebrush

Sagebrush wrote:

Each glue has different properties which best fit different applications. You'll probably want to have each on your workbench. Consider with epoxy that five minutes after you mix a batch it will be unusable. It wouldn't be my first choice for general construction, but there are times when it is the best choice.

Frank

Each glue has different properties which best fit different applications. You'll probably want to have each on your workbench. Consider with epoxy that five minutes after you mix a batch it will be unusable. It wouldn't be my first choice for general construction, but there are times when it is the best choice.

Frank

The non toxic Liquid Cements work, but not as well as the smelly stuff you're trying to avoid. For major construction I use the liquid smelly stuff or superglue. Give the CA glues a try--lots can be done with them. Best thing to do is just jump in and start building. Experiment with different types of glue to see which works best for you. Experience will quickly answer all your questions.

Best of Luck, Frank

Actually I have great luck with the non toxic Testors liquid.It's almost all I use now,and I get a lot less headaches(Being a migraine sufferer,I do all I can to avaoid them!)

I thoroughly agree. Do a plastic sailing kit first. The Heller plastic sailing ship models are excellent.

There are two daunt>

One way of getting the best of both worlds is to squeeze your almost empty almost dry tube plastic cement into the liquid glue. This thickens the liquid glue, slows down its drying time and improves its adhesive properties. Its also a good way to get the last bit out of the almost dry (therefore unsuitable for modelling) glue.

The non toxic Liquid Cements work, but not as well as the smelly stuff you're trying to avoid. For major construction I use the liquid smelly stuff or superglue. Give the CA glues a try--lots can be done with them. Best thing to do is just jump in and start building. Experiment with different types of glue to see which works best for you. Experience will quickly answer all your questions.

Best of Luck, Frank

Frank,

Thanks very much for your patiience in answering my questions.

Sagebrush

If you're going to use CA glues, make sure it is in a *very* well ventilated area. And if you've got asthma or other breathing-related diseases, either use a respirator or don't use CA glue. It seemed like almost every time I used CA glue, I either ended up having an asthma attack, or got really close to having one. Maybe it's just me, and things may be different for others, but PLEASE be careful when using the stuff!!!!!

Jim