Damn Gunze Aqeous... and Tamiya acrylic

What did you use for thinning the paint ?

Just de-ionized water. Gunze and Tamiya are hot enough, I don't use alcohol to thin them. Sometimes I'll use Tamiya thinners to thin the first coat, but never, ever, will I use alcohol thiined acrylic over another acrylic coat. IMHO, these paints are simply too hot, and acrylics don't take kindly to being "reactivated" in this way. My own little rebellion starts here. Just say no to Gunze and Tamiya kids.

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Most unusual. Ethanol or denaturated alcohol will indeed dissolve both Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics (very good for stripping paint, BTW), but that's the first time I hear about water-thinned acrylic reacting with a previous paint coat. I use exclusively the Tamiya thinner for all my Gunze at ratios between 1:2 to 20:1 and I've never had any problems.

Do you use brushes or an airbrush ?

Airbrushed at around 15psi. You wouldn't catch me brush painting with Tamiya or Gunze. Looks to me as if the Gunze hadn't cured fully (this is after 5 days drying!), and the Tamiya was hot enough to start the ball rolling. The choices now are to give it a week or so, flat it back, spray on a thin barrier coat of Halfords primer (decanted and airbrushed) and repaint, or just strip it right back. Something tells me it's going to be the latter option.

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Remember: vodka is the clear stuff.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr. ;)

I've never used Gunze acrylics, I do however use Tamiya's and ModelMaster routinely with no ill effects. I use the highest concentration of pure alcohol I can get, the rubbing kind, though Vodka might have some side benefits for the operator of the application device! I don't get sit with the laboratory equipment to precisely measure what and how I mix my paint. I pour in the color I am planning on applying followed by a shot,squirt, dribble or dab of the alcohol. I guess you would call it TLAR=That Looks About Right. If it doesn't perform as I want, I add a little more of one or the other. Rarely do I have any kind of problems. Once done, I use a bit of Simple Green or Windex or combination of both...when the bottles get low I combine them into one or the other...again TLAR (Sometimes if one is a concentrate I'll add some H20 to thin it down.) to flush out my airbrush. At the end of my painting session, I tear apart the airbrush to give it a thorough cleaning with lacquer thinner. It is possible to get a bad bottle of paint. If the pigments were not mixed into the carrier in sufficient amounts the paint could be transparent or not even bind to the surface. If you find any product does perform well to your methods, and you have one that does, I'd use the one that does. What may work for me might not necessarily work for you, but that doesn't mean the product is bad unless everyone has the same problem. We as consumers vote with our dollars...those products not holding muster fade away pretty fast. Hope in the end your model turns out great.

Assuming that is, that an alternative is available. In my experience, acrylics, though much improved over what was available years ago, still don't hold up well against enamels, and even modern enamels aren't as good as some of the old (15 years or older) stock I've got lying around when used with a hand brush. I can't buy enamel paint made to the old formula's anymore, and if the ecomaniacs have their way, I'm going to be forced to use acrylics at some point.

Rob

Just a thought here.

I was having similar problems, and then switched to Model Master acrylic airbrush thinner. All the problems went away, go figure....

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Hell, it's a good day for me when I can brush piant a pinhead sized dot, never mind airbrushing it. With all my overspray, if I used solvent-based paint, I could take credit for half the toxins we painters put into the air. Maybe some kind of extender would keep the airbrush tip from clogging. What about cutting it with Future?

TF

Hmm... how about improving your airbrushing technique? :-)

Without old fashioned solvent paints I would quit the hobby. And my latest model, 1:160 1914 Knox Chemical fire engine was mostly airbrushed. Airbrushing is so much better than using a paint brush.

Peteski