"Old" Instructions Question

Thinking back when I built kits in the 60-70's I do not recall the instructions telling to put decals on a gloss finish, not directly onto
the flat paint used for military models. I never once put a decal on a gloss surface and I'm not so sure that current instructions say to do so now.
I'm just an old OOB modeler very stuck in my ways but just when did this epiphany about decals come about and how was it passed around?
Craig
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Craig- Putting decals on a glossy painted surface allows them to adhere better and , more importantly, prevents "silvering", a situation where air gets trapped under the clear borders of the decal, giving a silver appearance. This makes the decal look like a decal and not a painted on marking. This does not occur with gloss paints. The Microscale system of decal application was probably the first to use the technique back in the late '60's. Most modelers will paint with flats, add a gloss clearcoat, apply the decals and put a second clear overcoat with whatever sheen they are looking to replicate, gloss, semigloss or flat. It works very well. There are other methods but this is likely the oldest and most used.
HTH Ron
<< Thinking back when I built kits in the 60-70's I do not recall the instructions telling to put decals on a gloss finish, not directly onto the flat paint used for military models. I never once put a decal on a gloss surface and I'm not so sure that current instructions say to do so now.
I'm just an old OOB modeler very stuck in my ways but just when did this epiphany about decals come about and how was it passed around?
Craig >>
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OSTIAANTIC wrote:

thx, but I'm curious as to how all the old casual pyro, renwal, revell, aurora OOB builders got the info. I was probably living in a cave or not too concerned about silvering, but the first I heard of it was around 5-6 years ago....
Craig
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Craig wrote:

This is where the hobby magazines filled us in. For all its faults "Scale Modeler" did have some useful info amongst the weeds.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
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<< thx, but I'm curious as to how all the old casual pyro, renwal, revell, aurora OOB builders got the info. I was probably living in a cave or not too concerned about silvering, but the first I heard of it was around 5-6 years ago....
Craig
>>
Craig- I was one of those casual modelers back in the early 60's. I remember seeing beautifully built models in the hobby shops and wondering why mine didn't look that good. I read the old Scale Modeler and Scale Models magazines and learned of the decal techniques there. I tried the Microscale system and never looked back.
HTH Ron
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Even 'new' instructions don't describe the gloss clear, decal, gloss clear, flat clear process to avoid silvering and make the decal look painted on.
Ken

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Ken Hartlen wrote:

that's one reason I made the orig post. Seems odd that this bit of info is not on the new instructions, especially for the $100 plus 1/32 aircraft being tossed around these days.
Craig

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I guess this is just another occasion where RMS comes to the rescue with handy hints and witty banter. Seriously- keep reading and keep posting questions. You can really learn a lot from the people hanging around here. I know I have.
--
Jim Atkins
Twentynine Palms CA USA
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I think part of it too, is that the composition of decals & their adhesive qualities have changed, not necessarily for the better in some cases. Most of the older decals would work on anything, including flat paint & bare plastic. I still have a few kits I built 30+ years ago. Kit decals right on flat paint & even on bare plastic. They may be yellowed, but they're on there as good as ever. I remembered about 25 years orso ago when Lead was being left out of paints & decals. All of a sudden, decals sucked & were harder to work with. ISTR some instructions stating not to put them on bare plastic even. About 25 years I had a friend who did a beautiiful Monogram A-4 & left the gray plastic but painted the belly. Every decal on the gray literally fell off after a day or so, but the ones on the paint were just fine. Now-a-days, I don't think you could put a decal directly on flat paint or on bare plastic & expect it to stay. I do think some kits' instructions now do recommend putting decals on a gloss surface & then dullcoating. Testors maybe?
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