Old decals

I model Boston & Albany in HO. Needless to say, there is not much (as in anything) available for B&A so I have undec locos which I want to decal. I have a good supply of decals, but the 1st couple of sets I tried came off in pieces. How long do you normally have to soak a decal to come off smoothly? Is warm water better? Any ideas why these things break up?

I am trying the Micro-Mark decal system but not good experience yet...

Thanks for any thoughts. Ron

Reply to
Ron
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_Do not soak_, just lay the decal on top of the water. As soon as the backing paper is soaked through, slide the decal gently onto the model. Put a puddle of water on the model first, so that the decal can float into place. Use the torn edge of a paper towel to suck up the water under the decal when it's in place. Let it dry, then soak it in setting solution.

Old decals become brittle: they are actually a layer of varnish onto which the design is printed. The varnish oxidises. To strengthen them, I've used Testors' Dullcote with mixed success. Other people report that solvent based artists' fixative or spray varnish works. YMMV.

HTH

Reply to
Wolf K.

Also note: decals won't adhere properly to a dull surface. Apply them to a glossy surface, and then if a dull surface is preferred, cover them with dullcoat.

Reply to
video guy - www.locoworks.com

Sure, it's easy. Buy a bottle of Microscale's Liquid Decal Film (you may have to copy and past the entire link below):

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Essentially, you brush it on top of your old decal art, let it dry, then use as normal. It will be thicker, but then it won't fall apart, either. I've used it plenty of times on old decals, and it works like a charm.

Paul A. Cutler III

************* Weather Or No Go New Haven *************
Reply to
Pac Man

I just overspray lightly the entire decal sheet with a thin coat of clear lacquer. Been doing it for some 40 years...long before Microscale existed.

Reply to
Whodunnit

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