Painting tight spots

Mar 24, 2006 10 Replies

Can anyone give me any tips on how to paint parts with raised areas? One example I'm trying to paint a car's brake assembly. The brake disk, hub and calibers all have different colors. But how do I paint it so that the paint doesn't run over each other?


There are some terrific micro brushes now on the market. Using these with a dabbing motion. I use a dry or nearly drybrushing method, seems to work better than a very fine tip paint brush. As I am not getting any younger, I find myself using a magnifiying lamp more to work on small or fine detail parts. It helps.

Very carefully with a small brush. Do not put too much paint on- do it in thin coats. If you use a thin coat, paint should not run. If it runs you are putting too much paint on.

Take good care of the very small brushes. They are easily damaged when cleaning them.

Thanks for the input but I'd imagine using a fine brush on a brake disk, especially on high end race cars with wider brake disks, it's gonna feel like eternity painting it. I believe your suggestion and a slightly bigger brush would help this.

Paint the asswmbly the color of the color of te brake pad (especially if it is a lighter color). Then paint everything that is not brakepad. but here is the fun part, and it is a trick I learned here for doing my aircraft wheels/ tires. Thin out that paint, and just touch near the pad, letting capilary action take it and it runs into the and around the corner created by the brakes. You might do this a couple of times, letting the paint build up and then you can paint the rest of th area with a normal consistancy. I have aso started doing ths some with instrumnet panels. Cappilary action is our friend 8-)

rich

Paint it as best as you can, freehand, using thinned paint. After it is set and dry, follow with a dark wash over the area, and then drybrush a highlight. This dark wash, and highlight, will accentuate the detail, help duplicate the effect that light has while falling upon the real full-scale item (example...no matter *what* color the underside of a real car is painted...outdoors, from a distance, the underside "looks" black....light, or absence of, *does* things...); and will cover any "slop" you may have made.

Check this link:

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How does this guy paint the small screws that hold the springs together as well as the springs too?! Either he has God's hands or those parts were made that way. Check out the clean painting of the darker spring with the aluminum bar underneath it. It's just not possibe! How does this guy do this?

Gawd, what I wouldn't give to have his talent! :(

Nothing wrong with using two size brushes. I frequently paint larger areas with a larger brush, switching to smaller one only to paint demarkation line between colors.

Obviously painted before assembly as separate parts. Masking techniques and materials are many .Use white glue as a mask , artists liquid masking ,tape , blutack ,baremetal foil ,kitchen foil with micro foil glue . I know a guy who used cooked spaghetti( pasta noodles without the sauce) as a mask to paint a camo pattern on a tank model. Any thing is possible.

This is somewhat confusing for me. I thought thick paint doesn't run a lot? That's based on my experience. Too thin paint runs more, right? Coz that's when it's close to water when it's too thin.

He's talking about the quantity of paint you apply, not how much thinner has been added to it.

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