Anyone tried printing onto Plasticard?

good point yet doesn't account for printable CD DVD media

"> good point yet doesn't account for printable CD DVD media

True, but printable CDs/DVDs are not bare styrene either. The printable side is probably coated or treated to take ink jet ink.

"> > "> Just wondering if anyone's tried it and how it went ..... I am tempted "> > as I "> > "> have a hand pass option on one of my printers and it will accommodate "> > up to "> > "> 600GSM paper, but I wanted to know if it is worth my trouble to try. "> >

"> > I sort of doubt it will work. Ink Jet printers use *water soluble* "> > inks. Styrene (and most plastics) don't take to water soluble paints so "> > it is doubtful that they will take to water soluble inks any better. "> >

"> > When I've needed something 'printed' (computer generated graphics) on a "> > model, I've printed it on paper (I used several different papers: "> > regular bond, photo-graphic, and 'sticky-back') and apply the paper to "> > the model. "> >

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"> > "> Thanks "> > ">

"> > "> Steve "> > ">

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"> > \/ "> > Robert Heller ||InterNet: snipped-for-privacy@cs.umass.edu "> >

|| snipped-for-privacy@deepsoft.com "> > /\FidoNet: 1:321/153 "> >

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\/ Robert Heller ||InterNet: snipped-for-privacy@cs.umass.edu

|| snipped-for-privacy@deepsoft.com /\FidoNet: 1:321/153

Just wondering how well these paper models (as a whole) will hold up over time. I can think of several uses (such as store interiors for my model buildings), but if the paper will curl, crack or fade then that could be a problem (although gluing plastic bracing might help the curling). Sorry, I guess I am stuck in the decades old mindset of paper wearing out quickly, and plastic lasting, although that seems to no longer be true.

Pendon Is doing well so far

I was thinking the same thing but concluded that several layers of lightly sprayed lacquer would help along with stout bracing (though not plastic necessarily)

I have seen paper models over 100 years old which look fine. However conditions have a lot to do with longevity. If you live in a high humidity area and your layout is not in a humidity controlled area, you should brace walls as even wood will buckle in the moist conditions. Modern card stock is much tougher than the old papers use in the past and those used in the "punch out" books but if you buy "archival" level paper stock the paper will last centuries. the next problem is ink. All inks will fade in direct sunlight. since few of us have layouts hit by such light that is not a problem for us (though fluorescent lights do cause any pigmentation to fade be it ink or paint or molded in colour) So the inks should last as long as any other paint. Basica;lly if you avoid high humidity and bright light paper will last as well as any other material you can model with.

cat

Several paper modelers swear by "Future" floor polish for this purpose.

cat

I use balsa strips for bracing my cardboard (e.g. Metcalfe) buildings. Available from good model shops.

I no longer use Balsa as it is a rain forest hardwood, milled non-sustainably I am told..... but I understand the principles.

Cheers

Steve

Any suggestions as to the type of glue to use when using paper and expecting a few years life from paper models. My experience is the 'contact' type adhesives 'leech' thru to the surface, and shrink and distort paper after a few months, and water based ones either fail to stick at all to 'archival' type papers ( which seem to have a plasticky finish) or distort imediately..

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Personally I use "carpenter's" or "cabinetmaker's" glues. They are a yellow toned (but dry clear) glue that is like a thicker "white" glue (like Elmer's). I use it sparingly as it can get messy but it holds tenaciously and will last for many years. A lot like the "white" glues but I find they have too much water in them and can cause problems when attaching fine parts. Another good glue, especially when you want things to bond fast, is "Alien's Tacky Glue" which is found in "crafts" shops.

cat

Now there's an idea for flat sided rolling stock.

Print directly onto overhead projector film and stiffen the back of each car side with either plastic or even brass rod. This would give flush windows instantly.

Might give it a try.

"> Now there's an idea for flat sided rolling stock. "> "> Print directly onto overhead projector film and stiffen the back of "> each car side with either plastic or even brass rod. This would give "> flush windows instantly.

You'll want a *white* plastic backing sheet, with the window openings cut out.. Ink Jet printers don't print 'white'...

"> "> Might give it a try. "> ">

\/ Robert Heller ||InterNet: snipped-for-privacy@cs.umass.edu

|| snipped-for-privacy@deepsoft.com /\FidoNet: 1:321/153

I was blissfully ignorant of that. What is the alternative, e.g. for model plane builders?

You might have problems getting the ink dense enough not to show the backing material.

True. Wouldn't hurt to try. Not planning on using my own printer but will print off the design at Officworks and then get them to transfer to OHP.

Hi martin, I guess I don't know for planes as weight is a critical factor. Corflute and foam board come to mind immediately. Don't know what else though.

The first rule of paper or card model making is to use 3 or odd numbers of layers, for the same reason that ply wood is always made of odd numbers of layers, the layers tend to counter warping. Second rule is that you MUST seal the surfaces - shellacing was the normal method in the past, but some artists sprays should have the same effect. With those two techniques, paper models should be robust enough to have a long life where they are not directly handled.

Regards, Greg.P.

m> I was thinking the same thing but concluded that several layers of lightly

FWIW I have paper and cardstock models on my layout that are over 50 years old and still holding up fine.

Don