Bachmann G scale.

Hi all,

I'm looking at building a New Zealand Railways loco on a Bachmann G scale 4-6-0 chassis. There seems (based on price) to be two different versions of the 4-6-0 (ignoring railway variations) offered, the set loco and the individual model. Can anyone tell me how or if the two locos differ? I might as well have coaches/track etc for another $50- if the locos are the same.

I have queried two shops selling Bachmann but haven't had a response.

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter
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*** Can anyone tell me how or if the two locos differ? I might as well have coaches/track etc for another $50- if the locos are the same. ***

------------------------------------------------------------ The Bach Man Phorum might be able to provide an answer:

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Bill Bill's Railroad Empire
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Reply to
BillsRREmpire

------------------------------------------------------------ I checked Bachmann's 2006 catalog and found the following (page 114):

"Nicknamed the 'Annie' by posters on the 'Ask the Bach Man' message board at

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we're happy to offer this special anniversary edition 4-6-0 Steam Locomotive. With the latest drive mechanism, metal siderods, and separate detail parts, including separate piping and all metal handrails, this 4-6-0 is a locomotive that Mr. Baldwin & Company would be proud to call their own."

Maybe it's a deluxe version of the set locomotive.

Bill Bill's Railroad Empire

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Reply to
BillsRREmpire

We're only up to 2005 here in NZ! ;-) (catalogue wise)

Reply to
Greg Procter

Thanks for that! I've asked there.

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Just in case you are considering using an older used unit instead of new production, I am aware of at least 4 different (mechanically) versions of the Bachmann ten-wheeler:

1st - The on-board battery powered units with plastic drivers. Not recommended for kit bashes involving the chassis due to the lack of track pick-ups and durability problems with the drivers. 2nd - Track powered units with a crown gear / double reduction spur gear drive and simulated Stephenson valve gear. Not recommended for extended use due to the flimsy drive. I have one that had worn its gears to the point of not operating. Also, the plastic used in the side rods shrank enough to cause a noticeable hitch in the gait of the locomotive. 3rd - Track powered units with a worm / worm gear / single reduction spur gear drive and simulated Stephenson valve gear. Better. 4th - Current production track powered units with an improved motor, worm / worm gear / single reduction spur gear drive, metal side rods, and working Walschaerts valve gear. Still better. But best of all, particularly if you literally just want the chassis, is the conversion chassis made by Barry's Big Trains at
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've use two of the them to upgrade a 2nd version and a 3rd version Bachmann ten-wheeler. They are excellent, well thought-out products that install easily and result in a durable, smooth running locomotive. I'm not sure the investment is justified for upgrading a list price current production unit, but if you can find an older unit for low cost, I think the result represents comparable value to other G rod locos. Even if you choose not to use the BBT chassis, the list of kinks at his site are useful for any of the Bachmann units. Geezer
Reply to
Geezer

Hi Geezer,

Now you're talking!

A 2-8-0 chassis with 2" (4') drivers opens up quite a few more possible prototypes for me! :-)

NZR rolling stock, like South Africa, went from tiddler narrow gauge from 1870, through big narrow gauge 1880, to near European standard gauge profile by 1930, with another increase around 1980 to handle the increasing sized ISO containers. All I need is 4'6" (2 1/4") drivers and I can start on the 4-8-2s and 4-8-4s, but that can wait for a couple of years!

Regards, Greg.P.

Geezer wrote:

Reply to
Greg Procter

Greg, what are you thinking about building - a BLW Ub? Or maybe the Richmond version? :-)

Cheers,

Mark

Reply to
mark_newton

I'm sure you know the variants of the Ub's;

Baldwin, first batch of 10 with Stevensons motion. Some with three window, some with two window cab. Richmond 1 only. Brooks 1 only. Single arched window cab. Baldwin, second batch of 10 with Walschaerts motion.

These all had 4' (1.5") drivers and straight boilers.

Hopefully I can get a two window, Walschaerts motion Bachmann loco so I just have to make a boiler, relocate or replace the cab and totally rebuild the tender, which is much shorter and higher so the loco could use existing turntables.

A second Bachmann 4-6-0 would become a Baldwin Aa 4-6-2, but that would be a bigger rebuild. Meanwhile the Procter Wagon Works is churning out lots of L wagons and assorted other types along with some two axle C type passenger coaches and the bogie mounted rebuilds. I need something other than the LGB Stainz 0-4-0t to pull them!

I guess it's slightly cheating to pick out the few 4' driver locos, but better that than A's, Abs with undersized drivers or the Q's with too long wheelbase! (for everyone else: most NZR mixed traffic locos had 4'6" drivers)

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

Greg, I had assumed you were using 1:24 scale for 3'6" on 1.75" track, now you have me confused by using 1:32 to define the size of your drivers. What scale are you using? Keith

Reply to
Keith

I'm using 1:24 on 1 3/4" gauge. The prototype drivers are 4'1.5" diameter but the Bachmann drivers are only 2"/4' diameter.

I guess that would have been clearer if I had written 4'(+1.5") I'm counting 4' scale diameter as "near enough" to 4'1.5".

I'm up against going back to Imperial measurements - the "feet" bit is simple enough as there are inches on the backside of my metric ruler.

1/2" = 1 foot, but where prototype dimensions inches are involved I give up and revert to converting everything to metric measurements. A 24th of an inch in 16ths/32nds/64ths is just too much for my little brain so I just multiple the prototype inches by 25.4 and divide by 24 - easy!

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Greg Procter

OK, the brackets threw me, I thought you were trying to show the scale equivalent.

Near enough unless you want to model them 'as new' they would have been 4' diameter well before the tyres reached scrapping size.

Me to, but you might find something useful here!

Keith

Reply to
Keith

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