Flex Track Problems...

I am in the process of laying my track and seem to be having problems, especially on the corners, which are 22 degrees. What is the trick to laying out flex track without the frustration I'm experiencing? Seasoned modelers will know what I'm talking about - the way the "movable rail" becomes longer or shorter than the "fixed rail". I seem to be getting a lot of un-uniformed rail joints coming off a straight section as the flex goes into the turn - or when there is a joint in the middle of the turn. This of course causes derailments. I'm pulling what is left of my hair out with this problem, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Reply to
Bobby
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Bobby wrote in news:Xns94E0E5F394DA0bobbyt99hotmailcom@207.35.177.134:

That would be basic geometry. The inside rail travels a shorter length so it will stick out. The solution is to make sure that the movable rail is on the inside of a curve. Then you use rail nippers to cut the rail back to match the length of the fixed rail.

Connect two lengths of flex together while they are still streight. Solder the rail joiners into place. Then start laying the track in the middle of the curve and trim it to fit on the ends.

I have also seen (but not tried) a trick of joining two pieces of flex by sliding the movable rail back by several inches (about

4x the track gauge [you didn't say what scale you are building]). Slide the movable rail of the next track into the vacated space. Place the joiner on the movable rail there. This creates a staggered joint that promotes a smooth curve.

I know, been there done that, it looks so easy at first. Then you try it...

Reply to
Gordon Reeder

Prototype railroads do this as well, if yo've noticed

____|_________________|_______ _____________|_______________

Like so..

_______________________________________________________ Drew Bunn Ainsley Specialized Transport Toronto, Ontario Canada bunn snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com

Reply to
Drew Bunn

I use pieces of snap track of the correct radius and lay them on top of the flex track to make sure the curve is uniform, and then mark the joint and cut it. I use a small stationary belt sander to true the cut ends. I always bring a needle file down the top of the cut end to take the edge off; I also make one light pass on the top inside rail surface. This is not usually necessary with Atlas snap track, as there is seldom a sharp edge. But it is necessary with the cut ends of flex track. harrym

Reply to
HarryM

Put the movable rail on the inside of the curve. Also start at the curves and work out, so you don't have joints in the middle of the curve. Alternatively, solder the joint that falls in the middle of the curve.

If your joints don't line up exactly in the curve, this is actually a good thing. The rail without the joint will help hold the curve and keep the joined rail from kinking. It's not foolproof, but it helps.

Jay Back in action once again

Reply to
JCunington

Lay your track so the movable rail is on the inside of the curve. Then simply cut off the excess rail. On a curve cut the movable rail a little shorter than usual and slide the movable rail of the next piece into the ties of the previous section. Then your joint can share the ties of one piece of flex track thereby giving the joint more stability. Try to keeping your joints slightly staggered if possible. Staggered joints are slightly more forgiving to train operation.

Reply to
RLM

I do the opposite and put the movable rail on the outside. IMO, when it is on the inside, the ties will be so closely spaced that it really looks unrealistic.

Reply to
Charles Callaghan

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