"A> Yes, as in a curved Shinohara turnout that needs to be insulated.
When you use flextrack, you *never* use anything but metal rail joiners. Insulated rail joiners are only for snap-track, never for flextrack.
For this situation, use metal rail joiners, *SOLDERING* them. *AFTER* you have both tacked down the track with track nails *AND* ballasted the track, use a Dremile tool with a cutoff wheel and carefully cut a gap in the rail you need to isolate. You can fill the gap with a thin piece of styrene, which you carefully carve in place to the profile of the rails, lightly sanding with *very, very fine* sandpaper. Add a drop of Zap (CA) to fix it in place. You should have placed track nails close to both sides of the gap, to keep the rails from moving. Mark the gap location when tacking down, say with a felt tip marker on the rail's top surface (you'll clean it off later).
The gap does not have to be just at the joint between the turnout and the flextrack. It can and should be a little further down the line, like 6-12", something like that -- you want to leave some spare clearance, esp. on curves.
"A> > I really don't think you want to use insulated joiners in curves - to hold "A> a "A> > curve, you really need to use metal joiners and solder them to hold them "A> in "A> > radius. Is there any particular need to have the insulated sections in a "A> > curve? "A> >
"A> > -- "A> > The Conductor "A> > Digital Railroader LLC "A> > snipped-for-privacy@wi.rr.com "A> >
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