My first brass caboose - And now I have questions...

I picked up a brass DM&IR bay window caboose this past weekend. The car has no visible wheel wear so it's seen little or no layout time. Since
this is a sizable investment for a single car, for me anyway, I thought I'd pose a few questions before I tear into it.
If it matters, it's an OMI 3952.1 and the label says "F/Ptd & Ltd", which I assume is Factory Painted (which it is) and Lighted (which I haven't checked yet). I'm also using DCC, but please, let's not discuss right now whether or not that's a good choice...
Anyway, here's the questions:
1) It looks like it'll take Kadee #5's, but without the draft gear. Does this mean I'll have the same problem as say an Athearn diesel with it's live frame?
2) If it is lighted, or if I light it, can I assume that one of the common diode bridge/voltage regulator circuits for DCC would be appropriate?
3) Since the car is up here by the PeeCee right now I haven't checked it with a meter, but it sure looks like all four axles are insulated on the same side. That's easy enough to fix, but is it something commonly seen from the factory?
4) Included in the parts bag are two of what I believe are cut levers, and although I see the holes I believe they get threaded through, I have no idea of what their orientation should be. Any clues?
TIA, Stevert
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Not if you use the plastic shank Kadees, which I think are the # 9. Same as the # 5, but non-conductive. So that makes ~that~ a non- problem, whether the chassis is hot or not.

Put a 12/16 volt bulb inside, connect one wirre to the left rail and the other one to the right rail, and forget about it. You don't have to do anything special to car lights account you are using DCC. If you want to be able to turn it on/off, put a manually operated switch on it somewhere out of sight -OR- buy a Digitrax function only TF-4 decoder. About US$20 at better hobby shops everywhere.
If you use the decoder -AND- if your bulb draws more than 50mA, then put a 33 Ohm 1 Watt resistor in series with it to buffer the inrush current when you first turn it on. A 33 Ohm resistor will have bands thus:
orange - orange - black - gold/silver/no-color 3 3 0 1st# 2nd# multiplier tolerance %
Froggy,
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common diode bridge/voltage regulator circuits for DCC would be appropriate?< You can do this but it's not needed. Using DCC, when a device is connected across the rails it is called half voltage. In other words you will get around 6 volts +/-. If you use a bridge then you will get full voltage or around 12 volts +/-. If you want to use a LED, instead of a bulb, then you need a resister and another regular diode.
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