I am writing this for some newsgroup-challenged friends.
One bought a Berk at his local hobbyshop. Tested it in the shop on DC, ran
great. Took it home, put a decoder (Lenz LE1035) in it, fan like a crock -
as if it had a severe bind. Tried it back on DC - smooth as silk. Replaced
the Lenz decoder with a TCS decoder - bind returned. Ditto with an NCE
decoder. DC again - fine. Took it back to the shop and experienced the same
problem with a replacement. Took that back and decided to go without.
At another friends place, tried out his new Berkshire (different loco from
different shop, I hasten to add. Not one of No 1 friends exchanges.).
Installed Lenz LE1035, cut blue wire and wired in 380 ohm resistor to
overcome normal P2K lights problem - this is what we normally do for P2K
steam locos, rather than replace bulbs. Has always worked. Put the tender,
decoder installed but not connected to the loco, no problem. Backup light a
little weak but not objectionably so. Connected loco to tender - bzzzzt.
Short circuit. Disconnected loco from tender. No short. Remove decoder from
tender, restored to DC configuration.
Put the loco back on a bit of totally dead track, and applied 9v DC. Ran
fine. Put loco on DCC track (undecoded), dialled 00 and ran fine. Tried
other decoders (anther LE1035 and an LE 1025) with same result - bzzzt. Loco
goes great on DC, but a complete disaster on DC.
Now over the years our group has installed 100's of decoders. We are not
neophytes at this game. Each install was checked, decoders isolated from
frames, etc, etc. It appears that the problem is in the way the PCB in the
tender is wired when DCC is used. If not, the only other thing I can think
of is our using dropping resistors in the light circuits, rather than
replacing the bulbs with 12v/50ma bulbs. But there has never been a problem
in the 2-8-8-2, 0-8-0 or 0-6-0.
So, anybody had any problems? Got any suggestions? HELP!!!
Newcastle NSW Oz
"Steve Magee" wrote
just one right now (I do not have that model!): is there any
RMF suppression circuitry, like a capacitor across the motor
leads? If so, check if disconnecting them solves that problem
another question: is the motor by chance one of those iron-less
types? These do not like pulse-power
These do not like pulse-power<
Not in plastic engines, the cost would be to high. Pulse-power could be
the problem however except for the fact the LE1035 is a silent running
decoder. Also the TCS decoders are quiet running and so are the new NCE
Often this problem is a capacitor installed for RF radiation problems.
Usually cutting this capacitor out will fix the problem.
This is normally what we do for Bachmann loco's - removing chokes and
capacitors, have never had to do it with P2K. I shall check, but I don't
recall seeing a cap on the PC board.
Thanks for help, guys. Shall see if there is a cap and what happens if we
reconfigure the board. But feel free to offer any other suggestions!
I'm an N scaler so I don't usually have a luxury of plug-n-play
maybe I can offer some hints.
Since you are a seasoned installer, you could try tracing the motor
right from the motor, all the way to the DCC plug. The traces on the
board should be visible, so you can see if they go anywhere else
DCC plug and the motor.
Another option would be to unsolder the existing wires from the motor
hook up temporary jumpers to the motor. Take those wires and hook
directly to the motor outputs on the decoder (orange and gray). Then
hook up the red and black
leads from the decoder to the the DCC plug (or directly to the rail
using 2 more temporary jumper wires. Now you have the motor fully
from the circuit board. So, you only have 4 connections to the
decoder and the
loco should run well. If it doesn't, then there is something "funky"
motor itself ( this is highly unlikely). If it runs Ok, then as you
said, there is
fomething "fishy" on the circuit board between the motor and decoder.
said, you should be able to visually follow the traces and see where
BTW, "funky" and "fishy" are highly technical terms.
Thanks for your observations, Pete. Current thoughts are leaning to an
unwanted connection between pins 3 and 7 in the socket - not the plug - in
the tender. We will look at this first, then move on. After all, the loco is
brand new, so the "return it to the shop" option still very much exists.
Shall see if the owner wants to strip the loco further before getting into
real trouble shooting.
Your technical terminology is noted. Rates right up there with "tads",
"smidgins" and redefined versions of base (and I do mean base) Anglo-Saxon,
that often accompany decoder installations here... :)