Harrison M300 lathe .......


Having to correct some parts of my last posting.

I have a Harrison M300 lathe in my garage.

Having serious problems with the Feed gears ("ABC", "RST", "WXY"); as they do not engage. Does anyone have experience this ? I get no 'feel' whatever when turning the "RST" knob.

While trying to see if I could do anything, I took off the "WXY" knob intending to try and loosen the spindle. The ball end of my alen key snapped off in the head of one of the bolts. I do not want to drill it out, but all my efforts to get the broken piece out have failed.

I am totally deaf, so my list of contacts is very small. Can anyone advise me ?

I am in the Reading area (RG2 8JP).


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have you tried tapping the broken bit sideways with a small centre punch to loosen it up, and then pulling it out with a magnet. It must be quite a tight fit if you can't just tease it out. I would have thought it would be very difficult to drill and you might have more luck just smashing it with a punch and picking the bits out. (put your safety glasses on) have you tried Tony at lathes.uk

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website has info on just about every machine tool you can think of. Kev.

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Have you tried inverting the hole the broken bit is lodged in and gently tapping with a hammer on the top and/or manipulating the bit with a pin. Trying to pick/lift it out against gravity seems like a not starter to me.

Oh It might not be wise to put your full postcode in usenet postings. Anyone who cares now knows, within a hundred meters or so, where there is a M300 lathe and thus quite likely a workshop... I suspect that with a bit more online digging they could even find your exact address.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

This page may help with the lathe details.

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looks like a nice lathe on the details. As for getting the broken allen key out, you will be lucky to drill it. They're too hard for normal drills. I've had some success with the tipped drills that you see advertised in the Sunday papers. They claim to drill anything and they frequently can. They look like masonary drills but will take much higher temperatures. You see them demonstrated at shows etc drilling files, bearings and other impossible stuff. Forget normal drilling techniques. Highest speed possible, NO coolant and loads of pressure. This heats the workpiece so it softens. The drill can then cut it. I've seen the swarf come off incandescent. Use good eye and hand protection. I've used these drills for removing work hardened cap heads before. It's butchery but it works. I would try Kev's idea fist though. Good luck.


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Get the broken face very clean with cellulose thinners or isopropyl alcohol and then araldite the handle back on. Leave for 24hrs before trying to tease it out.


Reply to
Peter Mounsey

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